The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

When it comes to Cairo restaurants, the city's hotels are usually safe bets for an evening of fine dining. Incorporating the original Palace Al Gezira into its design, the Cairo Marriott Hotel in Zamalek remains one of the most beautiful hotels in the capital. Built in 1869 by Khedive Ismail, and once used as a temporary home to many European monarchs, the intricate neo-classical architecture is still as breathtaking as it once was.      Saraya Gallery, a restaurant on the ground floor of the main palace building, is both impressive and dazzling with shining oriental chandeliers, giant golden mirrors, patterned wood wall panelling and intricate plaster work adorning the mile-high ceilings. Such a majestic setting brings on a sense of nostalgia and expectations of a meal fit for a king. Arriving in the evening, our dining experience was accompanied by the sound of soothing – and slightly romantic – live harp playing. Soon after we were seated, the menus were delivered, and we ordered the chef's recommendation of the French onion soup (45LE) for our starter, the 10oz certified black Angus New York sirloin steak (315LE), and the pasta e risotto Tuscany tour (130LE) – a dish that combined three pasta and one risotto preprations. The drinks menu was vast, filled with an infinite variety of imported wines, liqueurs, whiskeys, spirits, cognacs, beer, cocktails and non-alcoholic concoctions. One red berry iced tea (28LE) was ordered, along with a couple of large glasses of Cape Bay white wine (105LE/each). The white wine was served chilled in two enormous wine glasses, whilst the red berry iced tea was slightly tasteless, but we were afforded the chance to sweeten it ourselves with a side of syrup. To start, a complimentary bowl of delicious bread arrived alongside a butter dish. The food took a while to arrive, but all was forgiven when the plates were finally delivered underneath grand silver cloches. The onion soup was covered with a thick layer of stringy cheese which we cut through to reach thinned, flavourful soup with sweet onion pieces and the soggy bread immersed at the bottom of the bowl. The steak, meanwhile, was a colossal piece of quality meat, and happened to be our favourite of the meals. It was perfectly cooked to our medium-rare specifications and the pepper sauce was well balanced, while the side of vegetables remained a little crunchy, but was lacking seasoning. Our second side of parmesan fries was also sub-standard; undercooked with a measly cheese topping. In the creative four-pasta dish, the ravioli all'aragosta, penne all'arrabiata, spaghetti di mare, and the risotto del giorno were each unique, but some more delectable than others. The spaghetti di mare was positively al dente and sported a handful of tasty, fresh scallops and small shrimp, all rolled in a delicate tomato sauce. The penne all'arabiata, served with a generous amount of spicy tomato and basil sauce, was unfortunately undercooked, while the ravioli all'aragosta was vividly flavoured by pieces of lobster and baby shrimp. The risotto, meanwhile, was full of flavour, but the rice was slightly harder than we were expecting, which meant it didn't hold together like most risottos. On a brighter note, though, the rich mushroom and cream flavour was quite moreish. Overwhelmed by the fabulous sounding desserts, we ended our meal on a high note, ordering the chocolate croquant (70LE) to share. Despite the exotic promises of chocolate dacquoise, sable Breton and caramelised hazelnut, it was effectively a delicious log of milk chocolate mousse, with a filling of dark chocolate, covered in coco powder, with a side of scrumptious strawberry compote. We're not sure the quality of all the food entirely justifies some of the high prices; however, Saraya Gallery undoubtedly provides a magnificent setting for a formal dinner, hand in hand with some of the most professional waiters we've been lucky enough to encounter.      

Cairo is all about the mystery, the hidden secrets and what isn't obvious to the eye; it's a city of intrigue and contrast, one that never fails to entertain, amuse and time after time, prove to be a one of a kind experience. It is true that this city isn't always the most extravagant in shopping options, specifically for eveningwear, both for males and females. However, this does not mean that the women of Cairo need to sacrifice their wardrobe; it merely means they have to be more cunning in seeking it out. Though this may sound like a little bit too much effort, it is in fact quite refreshing; opening up new doors you may have never entered before – literally. Kamal Shohbur is a simple man with an atelier located in Mohandiseen, just off Midan Aswan in an unmarked building on Abo El Mahasen El Shazly Street. Recommended by a friend to make a dress, the experience turned out to be quite a memorable one, oozing with contradictions that deeply resemble life in Cairo as a whole. The atelier itself is downplayed, with a front window boarded with newspapers – it is in no way extravagant or polished on the inside either. It is simply an office with a fitting room to one side and a workshop in the back. No fancy lighting or luxurious furniture; just your design, Shohbur and his work. Shohbur himself has been making clothes since he was a child, under the apprenticeship of his father. Having travelled to Italy for some time to study design, he returned to Cairo, working mostly on a small scale. Although he has been encouraged by friends to market himself more in the fashion world, by hosting fashion shows and such, the man behind the dresses told us that he prefers to stay low-key, with a smaller clientele. The process begins with an initial meeting where the design is discussed, your measurements are taken and the amount, as well as type, of fabric needed is given.  In the city, the best place to go shopping for said fabric is Salem, also in Mohandiseen. After settling on the design and buying the fabric, the magic begins. Shohbur is accommodating and more importantly, comfortable to be around. His pleasant, soft-spoken demeanour quickly erases any pre-conceived notion of the atmosphere one stands in; in any other circumstance, his would be the last place a girl could imagine taking her clothes off. But once the process is on its way, there seems to be nothing more natural, ironically enough. Completing a dress can take up to a month, or in some cases could be delivered in a week. This of course depends on the how complicated the design is, and your own time contraints. Several fitting sessions take place about once a week – if you're taking your time – and because Shohbur values his customers, with time he comes to learn their bodies, thus producing dresses that are better and better fitting.  He will also patiently calm one's nerves during moments of doubt, apprehension and outright despair – which could happen several times throughout. The tailoring work is done mostly by Shohbur himself, with some minor help from extra hands that invariably change. He says that it is difficult to find good handiwork these days for lack of experience, and on top of that, has no desire to become a full-fledged business, so having a flock of employees is not high on his priority list. With a framed 'Allahu Akbar' picture in the fitting room, one had to wonder what this calm, private man felt towards some the designs he's being given. He's seen short, backless, open mid-riff, low cut, and all other revealing varieties and yet it doesn't shock him; however, does he approve? Giving us an honest answer, Shohbur admitted that the concept once filled him with guilt; it was a concern that led him to Al Azhar to seek spiritual guidance. Shohbur has thankfully made peace with his profession and avoids filling his mind with unnecessary conflict. The pieces he produces are highly commendable, well-tailored and most of all, personalised. His prices are reasonable, where a dress could cost just a little over 1000LE, also depending on complexity. But above all, Shohbur himself is pleasant and humorous, making the somewhat strange experience all the more enjoyable.

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

With the temperature soaring, what could be better than a whole day filled with sunbathing, swimming and snoozing in the sun? Heading away from the busy city centre, the Dreamland Hilton Pyramids Golf Resort in 6th of October City offers a supposedly luxurious day-use package. With the Hilton's reputation preceding itself, we imagined a five star afternoon, along with serenity and tranquillity; sadly our experience didn't quite match our expectations. The beige and brown hotel lobby is fairly uninspiring, to say the least, and would definitely benefit from some modernisation. However, for an attractive 150LE, customers are granted use of their outdoor pool, as well as a meal and a soft drink. It's important to bear in mind that children can use the swimming pool for free – something we were unaware of before our arrival. For 500LE, a group of three people can enjoy both the pool and the spa facilities, including the sauna and steam room.  Looking for a day of tanning, we went for the straightforward swimming pool day-use and instead of being shown to the swimming pool by a member of staff, we were ushered back out of reception and waved off in the general direction.  When we arrived at the pool, a member of staff placed some soft, clean towels on top of our chosen sun loungers. Unfortunately, the foam mattress itself was too short for the bed – and our bodies – making for a rather uncomfortable sunbathing experience. The swimming pool is by no means large, but it is scenic, complete with bridge, palm tree and waterfall features. There's also a separate paddling pool for toddlers and babies. Of course, attending for free, both pools were busy with splashing and excited screams from crowds of young children, which somewhat disrupted the peace and quiet we'd anticipated. The drinks menu advertises a selection of fresh juices (23LE), non-alcoholic cocktails (28LE) and beer (29LE). Again, our ticket limited us to soft drinks; two canned sodas arrived chilled, alongside glasses filled with ice. The slatted tables between our sun beds were incredibly uneven, which inevitably led to many near-spillages – we'd recommend using the floor instead.  The food menu is sufficient for a poolside bar, sporting a small selection of starters (35LE-50LE), pizzas (47LE-54LE), meat dishes (80LE-104LE) and desserts (40LE-48LE). Our food voucher afforded us a choice between the club sandwich (64LE), a baked toast sandwich (46LE), a golf burger (67LE) or a shish tawouk (67LE); we opted for a club sandwich and a burger, which both took a while to arrive. Fortunately, both meals were worth the wait. The club sandwich was a huge creation; imagine double-tiered, white toasted sandwich triangles, packed with fresh salad, chicken, beef, cheese and lettuce. Although the meat was processed, the overall taste was both satisfying and incredibly filling. The burger was also colossal, made from juicy, quality meat and spread with lashings of mayonnaise and flavourful melted cheese encased in a soft, fresh bun. The thinly cut fries which came with both dishes were perfectly cooked and ever-so slightly crispy, leaving us both full and satisfied.  The Hilton offers a very standard, basic swimming pool day-use, complete with a good quality lunch, at a decent price. We'd recommend heading over if you don't mind your lazy day being hijacked by hyperactive kiddies.

Hello Cairo! You may be tempted to spend the weekend in bed, but as we always say: sleep is for the weak, not for the weekend! From morning to night, this weekend in Cairo boasts a veritable smorgasbord of live music, club nights, exhibitions, bazaars and more!     As always, Thursday is a big bag of treats, with DJ Feedo doing his thing at Otium's R&B Night and Y Lounge welcoming DJ Margo Sahara for Music Loves You Back. Elsewhere, the Ten Cities Music Project comes to Cairo with a big night of live electronic music at Rawabet Theatre and DJ Mayounah unleashes her tech-house sounds at this week's edition of House Arrest at O Bar, while Toyboys & Friends ends the season in style. Meanwhile, Sufi hosts a doubleheader of live music with Eftekasat and Jordanian musician, Macadi Nahhas, performing, while Alchemy celebrates every Mexican's favourite drink at A Tequila Tale. Friday starts with a bang at NEWGIZA, where The May Day hosts a full day of fun for the family. With some of the city's best food vendors, a huge shopping bazaar and plenty of activities for the kids, there's literally something for everyone – not to mention pony-riding and a Real Madrid Academy Foundation football tournament. Later in the evening, DJ Roro is at Graffiti, Tamarai welcomes the nostalgic for another edition of Top of the Pops and Cairo Jazz Club hosts DJ Fabric and DJ Aly Goede. Meanwhile, DJ Feedo makes a second appearance in as many days; but this time at O Bar's R&B Night. Elsewhere, Y Lounge welcomes DJ Ali to the decks and Car Cafe Club is hosting R&B Ladies' Night with DJ Pedro and DJ Music Man. Away from the club scene, Sufi is screening Hollywood fantasy Big Fish and DAAD brings science and art together with the 'Images of Science' exhibition, while documentary filmmaker, Raphaelle Ayach, leads the Safarni Children's Workshop at Artellewa. Saturday is a busy day for Amici Heliopolis; Breakfast (And Booze) starts off the day, before new all-you-can-eat-and-drink event, Happy Saturday, debuts. We're back at Graffiti, where DJs Onsy and Nataly span the historical scope of pop music for your listening and dancing pleasure, while Jazz Mate's The Listening Sessions welcomes Ahmed Hafoush and the Jazz Project for a smooth night of music. Mohandiseen bar, Almaz, gets grimy with another urban music extravaganza at Sizzling Saturdays, while Bamboo channels Beirut for Lebanese Love. Art is plentiful in the  capital, with several new exhibitions having opened this week, including Hala Elkoussy's 'Around My Living Room' at Masharbia Gallery, Riham El Sadany's 'Blue Passion' at Cala Art Gallery and most interestingly, Bar D'O's The Chalkboard exhibition . These are just a few of the delights that await you this weekend in Cairo – check out the Cairo 360 events calendar for more! Happy Weekend!

There's been one particular name that just keeps popping up on the Cairo 360 events calendar over and over again; she's played multiple gigs in Cairo, including at Cairo Jazz Festival in March, and recently, Bassem Yousef even nabbed her for a slot on his prime time TV show – so we thought we had better get ourselves a bit of Dina El Wedidi, too. It doesn't take long to realise that this is one young talent that's headed for stardom, but upon meeting the singer, she greeted us with a beaming smile like we were old friends. El Wedidi's music is still at the beginning of its evolution; her unusual approach to music sees her regularly utilising classical piano, the Irish violin and traditional Arabic instruments, which results in an experimental sound that falls somewhere between folk and jazz. El Wedidi grew up in right here in the capital, and while studying at Cairo University she worked as a tour guide in her beloved city – the Om Kalthoum Museum on Roda Island is her destination tip to tourists. However, the stage was calling to her and in 2008 she entered a career in drama with Al-Warsha Theatre Troupe, before choosing to break off as an independent artist. Since then, together with her band and production team, she's been a pioneer of the underground music movement that continues to bubble away in the city. Much of Cairo's contemporary music scene sprung to life in the wake of the January 25th revolution, but El Wedidi insists that the process has been far longer than that. "It takes a lot of hard work and time to break into Cairo's music circuit, as the paths into it have not yet been built – we have to do that ourselves" she explained. For the musician, the struggle is ongoing, as the music business in the city is still largely unregulated and organic. El Wedidi thinks that the revolution will continue to help the city's musicians; "For a long time, music has been a way of expressing feelings and communicating with an audience about social issues."  In her own songs, El Wedidi addresses issues that she herself is passionate about, such as her homeland, freedom and, of course, love. When asked how she feels about being a role model to Arab women, El Wedidi blushed –though her manager nodded approvingly, agreeing that El Wedidi is somebody who is making a path for female musicians in Cairo. This is an assertion that's backed up by the fact that she shows unflinching support to her peers and their ambition, too. Having recently collaborated with Maryam Saleh – another Egyptian songstress making waves in Cairo's underground music scene – El Wedidi remains confident that opportunities for women in music will continues to increase, and although there has been a huge pool of female talent in Cairo for a long time now, she feels the time has now come for women to take centre stage. El Wedidi's music and style is distinct from what we're used to seeing of the archetypal female Arabic singers regularly seen prancing around on TV, and that's something she values. "People here don't need to hear more of that – I want to create something new." The singer is currently working on her first album, and after that she's looking forward to going on tour with her band, as well as working to promote Egypt's up-and-coming artists. Her motivation comes from her high hopes for the future of this city's music scene; her mass of curly hair bounces as she nods excitedly telling us, "I am very optimistic! The writers in this city are doing some great things right now and their creativity is what will drive new music." El Wedidi is proud to have been part of festivals such as D-CAF and praises them for widening the circle of people exposed to Cairo's underground music. Her spectacular performance on that final Thursday night is sure to have gained her a few more fans, as her powerful voice filled the venue where a room full of fans swooned along. We can expect to hear her name again and again over the next few years, as this is an artist determined to bring underground music out of the shadows in Cairo.