The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

Lebanese restaurants in Cairo are common, to say the least, but few truly elevate the cuisine. Located on El Thawra Street in Heliopolis, Tanoura struck us as being both aesthetically interesting and colourful, drawing us in with bright oranges, Mediterranean yellows and reds. The ground floor is only partially covered, creating an outside-in feel, complete with flower beds and a central palm tree. Continuing its cheerful theme indoors, the restaurant spreads over two more floors.  Named after a Lebanese dance, it seemed only appropriate that Oriental music served as the backdrop to our dining experience, whilst antique, reclaimed shisha pipes are used as light fixtures and are incorporated into the interesting screen designs. We were promptly shown to our seats before the waiter discreetly told us that the minimum charge is 75LE; a minimum easy to surpass with their wide selection of tempting Lebanese dishes. All the typical hot and cold appetisers are available, along with salads, arayes, mana'eesh, fattah and grills. If Lebanese doesn't take your fancy, there's also a selection of soups and pastas to choose from. Tanoura also offer a good variation of drinks; we ordered a lemon juice (18LE) and a watermelon smoothie (25LE), both which arrived swiftly. The lemon juice was a refreshing bitter-sweet concoction whilst the watermelon – now in season – was a deliciously fresh, icy slushy. We requested one chicken fattah (45LE), an onion soup (20LE), hommos (20LE) and cheese sambousak (24LE). We didn't have to wait long, and in true Lebanese style, everything was served together. A basket of cold, soft baladi bread was delivered as an accompaniment to the creamy, well-seasoned hommos. The cheese sambousak resembled four, generously sized spring rolls, deep fried to a golden brown. Unfortunately – due to the bed of lettuce they were presented on – the underside turned soggy fairly quickly. The onion soup was rich and flavourful, complete with a considerable amount of onion pieces swimming in it. Of all the dishes, however, our chicken fattah exceeded expectations; it was a creamy mixture of large, quality chicken chunks amongst crispy bread and soft white rice. The portion was so large that we struggled to finish it along with our starters. Rather than choosing one of their Oriental desserts, we chose to wash our meal down with an apple shisha (18LE) which was as expected; fruity, flavourful and smooth. The colourful décor, chilled-out atmosphere and contemporary setting of Tanoura modernises traditional Lebanese recipes, and is proving to be a popular place for both young and more mature clientele.

The abundance of international brands on the Cairo shopping scene really does leave us spoilt for choice. Unless we're mistaken, if there are two things most ladies love, it's shopping and pampering; combine the two and it's sure to be a recipe for success. Since its opening in 1990, American chain, Bath & Body Works, have set up shop in several of Cairo's busiest malls. Before we even saw the shop, we were drawn in by a wave of deliciously fruity fragrances. Following our noses, we wandered into the perfectly organised, perfumed haven. The displays were clearly labelled and organised by product, smell, and as a result, colour too. This, combined with an abundance of testers and a friendly shop assistant, made for pleasant, stress-free browsing. Everywhere we looked we found pampering products with exotic names; a delicious smelling Midnight Pomegranate was available as a shower gel (175LE), body mist (195LE), lotion (150LE) and a heavy, creamy body butter (145LE), which worked miracles on our skin. At the time of our visit, a buy three, get one free promotion was running. A range of aromatic perfumes were also available; from a full-bodied, sensuous Black Raspberry (295LE) or a sweet Warm Vanilla Sugar, to a rich and woody smelling Twilight Woods (295LE). These smells aren't just limited to body mists though; we found many of the same 'flavours' in candle form, ranging from 60LE to 280LE depending on their size – our favourite was the Wild Strawberry Savage candle, which smelt exactly as you would imagine. Pretty oil warmers were available and we also spotted some decorative metal candle sleeves priced from 70LE to 95LE. The products at Bath & Body Works aren't just for personal pampering; attractive gift boxes are ready-made to help make the difficult decision of what to pick that bit easier. For 520LE, shower gel, body lotion, mist, moisturising cream and a small candle all come as a package, wrapped in clear cellophane, complete with a big pink bow. Alongside all of these bath, body and fragrance must-haves, Bath & Body Works also stock travel-sized toiletries, bath accessories such as exfoliating sponges, foot care and beauty goods, as well as several shower and body products for men. Unfortunately, Bath & Body Works doesn't distinguish itself massively from other, comparable international brands, although they do offer a massive variety of sweet-smelling products of similar high quality. We can almost guarantee that if you walk into Bath & Body Works, you'll feel compelled to come out smelling just as good as the shop itself, even if it is a little expensive.  

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

'Table of Life' is Egyptian artist Tarek Montasser's first solo exhibition and is currently showing at the Art Lounge of Al Masar Gallery in Zamalek. The collection is relatively small, with still life being the general premise. The artist returned to Cairo in 2004 after years of travelling with mixed feelings towards his hometown; changes over the years left him feeling displaced and confused – emotions that are reflected in all the pieces. The first painting that meets you by the entrance, 'Chaos', is simply a canvas full of curved paint tubes. Their shape and resulting pattern look almost like dancing dervishes, though they supposedly represent fallen soldiers in what the artist describes as "a useless battle". His brush strokes are thick and full; there's a fervent hastiness to them and it gives life to the inanimate objects. Many of his images look as though he captures his view of sitting at a table to work. Tables with paintbrushes, pencils, cups of coffee and lamps are depicted, only these have juggling clowns standing in the middle, further expressing his inner madness. 'Noor Loves Apples' and 'They Passed By' are also in the same vein, only these have what look like figurines standing around, casting shadows on the surface below them, looking rather suspicious. There's also a cartoonish quality to some of his work; images of lollipops and cakes look almost edible, and while his brushstroke technique is fairly inconspicuous, the work feels accessible and there's undeniable skill involved in creating such an effect and instilling the exhibition with such a quality. Montasser doesn't use a lot of colour in his work; most of the pieces are more of a muddy shade, but there is still something very vibrant about them. Perhaps it's the combination of the lively brush strokes along with the actual subject, or maybe it's the contrast of the dusty palette against sparse blotches of colour; either way, there is something active in his still life. Although the artist employs one of the oldest forms of painting, there is definitely a quirky element that runs through the conventional approach. It's as though Montasser gives us a peek into his mind, and although the insight reveals a lot of personal frustration, it's also whimsical and entertaining.

A trip to the Sofitel Cairo El Gezirah is an experience in itself; the tube-shaped structure stands as a figurehead on the southern-most tip of Zamalek. There are plenty of reasons to attend, even if you're not staying the night; an afternoon lounging by the pool or an evening of wining and dining at Nile-side restaurants, Le Deck, El Kababgy or La Palmeraie, provide great opportunities to view Cairo at its best. Another good reason to go is the hotel's hair salon. The salon is open every day between 9AM and 9PM, even during national holidays. The coiffeur is on the hotel's second floor and has signs throughout the hotel. We rang ahead to book, but were told that an appointment would not be necessary and to come whenever we liked. When we arrived, the salon was empty, though the place was well staffed; this is not unusual for the salon, meaning that if you're in a rush – or it's a national holiday – you can rely on the Sofitel for unwavering service. The salon is clean and neat, without any ostentatious displays of girliness or posters of grimacing models – this is a place befitting of the Sofitel name. We were greeted at the till and told to immediately take a seat in the hair-washing chair. The salon has room for four-to-five clients to be seen at a time, and although it's only a small space, it's well laid-out and doesn't feel cramped. The attendant took her time with washing our hair, giving it a good amount of time to soak and even giving us a soothing head massage in the process. The products used smelt delicious and we can now confirm that our hair felt soft and clean for days after the visit. After our hair was professionally wrapped and brushed, the stylist came out to meet us and consult us on what we wanted. He nodded in assurance at our instructions and sure enough, after much snipping and measuring, came up with the desired result and was happy to make any adjustments we asked for. After the hair was cut, so began the styling process, which involved at a blow dry, followed by some a heavy-handed application with straighteners. To our dismay, the stylist curled our hair into tight ringlets so that the cut itself was completely overshadowed - although to his credit, the curls were very professional and stayed in place for the entire day. A wash and blow-dry cost 250LE, and the salon is also equipped to do dyes, extensions and offers a selection of products for customers to use at home. We were truly pleased with the results of our styling and the swift, professional service, which made a Sunday afternoon maybe-I-should-get-a-fringe whim, a reality.

Entrepreneur, socialite, TV personality, wife, mother, daughter, sister; life is tough for Amy 'Superwoman' Mowafi. Fe-Mail 2 comes as the second release of Mowafi's amalgamated collection of columns for Enigma magazine, which have acted as a cathartic public diary of sorts, as she reflects on love, marriage, motherhood and other equally scary adult subjects. Following its release, Fe-Mail 1 was heralded as the Middle East's answer to Sex and the City; a comparison that should be as worrying to Mowafi as it is inaccurate. Unlike is the case with Carrie and friends, there are no shallow dramatics in Fe-Mail 2. Mowafi hasn't deluded herself with the type of personal feelings of grandeur that drive Sex and the City. Instead, she questions some very universal subjects head-on. The degree to which her tales resonate with you is another issue all together, but even male readers will almost certainly find themselves nodding in agreeable fashion; whether it be down to a quip from beau-turned-husband, 'the Boy', or a Mowafi epiphany. Unfortunately, as can be the case with this type of publication, the chapters often feel distanced from each other and the transition from magazine to book isn't always successful. However, the advantage of pulling her articles together, each of which is contemporaneous to its context, is that everything feels so present. The chapters may be somewhat disjointed, but any and all continuity is owed to Mowafi's spirit and intangible essence – which occasionally jump off of the page to give you a swift backhand. There's an enjoyable ambiguity with Mowafi's instinctive writing; one which makes you want to read more. From a storytelling perspective, though, Mowafi is a victim of her own unpretentious outlook on life. Despite a few hairy moments, the overriding arc of Mowafi's gradual march to wifehood isn't the car-crash one would demand of a power-house businesswoman and socialite. But that's ok, because this is actually where the strengths of Fe-Mail 2 lay. This is no self-help book; Mowafi isn't trying to make the world a better place and she manages to avoid preaching, maintaining a sincere tone throughout. Any form of art and literature is often perceived to be best when its receiver can relate to it; this is a highly simplified take on cultural consumption and a book like Fe-Mail 2 proves as such. There's a pleasing balance of familiarity and phantasm in Mowafi's writing that pulls you into her view of the world without shoving it down your throat; she just writes.  

Ever since her mesmerising performance as Edith Piaf in La Vie en Rose, Marion Cotilliard has become one of the most sought after actresses in Hollywood.  Appearing in a number of hit films including Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris, Christopher Nolan's Inception and most recently The Dark Knight Rises, it has become very clear that everyone wants a piece of Mademoiselle Cotilliard's indisputable talents. Rust and Bone – a low-key French melodrama – sees Marion return to her roots, with a story centred on two people coming together in times of great need. The film opens with Ali (Schoenaerts); an unemployed and an irresponsible single father who arrives in Antibes in southern France to live with his semi-estranged sister, Anna (Masiero). He soon lands a job as a bouncer at a nearby club; apart from being able to ogle short skirts all night long, it also gives him the freedom to take up kickboxing during the day. One night, during a club brawl, he meets Stephanie (Cotilliard); an orca trainer working at a nearby water park who gets herself caught up in the middle of the fight. Unable to drive, Ali extends his courtesy and drives her home. Initially, the two are shown to have no spark; they're greeted by Stephanie's jealous boyfriend and the two go their separate ways. Their paths cross again when Stephanie suffers a freak accident at the water park and calls on Ali to her rescue one more time. Finding solace in each other's company, the twosome starts off as friends, before finding themselves on the road to something more. Directed and co-written by Jacques Audiard – a filmmaker who gained acclaim for award-winning crime drama, A Prophet – Rust and Bone creates a successfully dark and unsympathetic melodrama of one woman's journey of both physical and emotional recovery. Unapologetic and sincere, the film is shot beautifully and is filled with dreamy, dim-lit water sequences, which play well against its generally grey and gritty backdrop. Unfortunately, Audiard does falter and manages to alienate all sense of intrigue and sentiment. The plot becomes predictable and manages to lose its leading lady almost straight away. Pushing her story completely aside, the focus is abruptly shifted on the hardships of a single father. The relationship between the two protagonists is baffling; the connection is off and they're relationship lacks any obvious passion. While nature of their relationship mirrors the mise en scene and the characters' miserable lives, the story yearns for a shot of furious romance to tie it all together. The most disturbing factor of all is the soundtrack; Katy Perry's 'Fireworks' and B52's 'Love Shack', among other musical monstrosities, lend absolutely nothing to the sum of the film's parts. Despite its ups and downs, Cotilliard delivers a sincere and often moving performance; never one to go over the top, the thirty seven year-old keeps her role grounded and real.  Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for her male counterpart who, very early on, settles into a one-dimensional portrayal of what should have been a complex character; Ali ends up coming across as a man devoid of any charm or wit. Raw, dark and very French, this is one of those films that you desperately want to love, but just plain don't.