The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

Cairo malls, more often than not, cater for a whole day of shopping with numerous restaurants and cafés keeping our sugar levels high. Heliopolis' Citystars is, of course, one of the largest malls in Cairo, offering up a maze of restaurants and fast food joints, Olives being one of them. Situated on the fourth floor of the second phase, the restaurant is split into three different parts, with the indoor area reserved for shisha smokers. The deep crimson colour scheme, as well as a number of plants and pebbles create an earthy, comfortable atmosphere. The staff are incredibly friendly but needed prompting a couple of times throughout the meal; probably on account of the vast number of tables occupied with families with young children. The menu is a mish-mash of both Lebanese and international dishes; hot and cold mezzas, soups and salads, meats, grills, sandwiches, pizza and manakeesh. The drinks menu is also diverse, with fresh fruit juices, cocktails, tea and coffee. We'd highly recommend the deliciously sweet pineapple-orange juice (18.85LE) and the sugary fresh lemonade (14.85LE).  To begin with, we ordered one finely chopped, fresh and tasty taboula (15.85LE), a creamy hommos (15.85LE) and the most delectable makanek (34.35LE) we've ever had; it was marinated perfectly in Olives' 'special sauce', which had a sharp but sweet vinegar aftertaste. The side of baladi bread was served warm and fluffy, with some pieces crispier than others. Thankfully our food was delivered promptly, meaning we didn't lose too much shopping time.  For our mains, one meat manakeesh (25.85LE) and a beef emince (54.85LE) took our fancy. Our meat manakeesh was somewhat disappointing, resembling a thin, crispy based pizza topped with mince meat only. Although the meat was well-cooked and juicy with a twinge of spice, it turned out to be a rather bland choice overall. Our meat emince fared much better, with well-cooked strips of meat swimming in a rich, mushroom and gravy sauce, accompanied by sides of aromatic, al dente rice and soft, buttery vegetables. Again, the dessert menu is a mixed selection of Lebanese konafa (23.85LE) and katayef with nuts (22.50LE), as well as lava cake (28.85LE) and waffles (29.85LE). Because of the generosity of the dishes, we steered clear of pudding, although a few of them certainly sounded tempting. Overall, Olives provides a quick, family-friendly dining experience, whilst delivering basic but tasty meals with some exceptional surprises.    

The Cairo shopping scene is one that's ever-expanding, bringing never ending fashion to the streets of Egypt. However, there's not much in the way of pet accessories – if you're going to look fabulous, why shouldn't your puppy? In the depths of Citystars, hidden next to the parking lot, Pet & Equi's glass front shows off a well-stocked range of animal supplies and strives to meet pet-lovers' needs with quality, fashionable accessories made for cats, dogs and horses.   Like a lot of up-market pet shops in Cairo, Pet & Equi doesn't sell animals, but can refer you to breeders or animal rescue shelters should you require. To the right side of the shop, food bowls are displayed on the floor and are not the easiest to access, although there is a good range of colours and sizes; from small to extra large, in either steel (55.50LE-152LE) or plastic (21LE-70LE). We went for a mini, pale pink one with a stainless steel bow on the side (55.50LE). They also stock automatic feeders (1700LE), which release a measured amount of food at set intervals, as well as portable water dispensers for travelling (35LE). There's also a collection of different animal beds including large floor pillows (300LE+), cushioned armchairs and more unusual creations; an elevated, black leather, boudoir-type sofa with a removable cushion (2466LE) and a fun, pink plastic house, shaped like a cats head (1700LE), for example. They also stock traditional wooden outdoor dog houses for(1700LE). All-important dog leads and collars are aplenty, from heavy duty leather and chains, to thin, puppy training leads and material harnesses. Retractable leads range from 170LE to 360LE depending on both the brand and the size of the animal you're buying for.  A whole wall is dedicated to dog toys, in an unbeatable range of shapes and sizes, including Frisbees, balls, shoes, squeaky chickens and circus style, run-through tunnels (106LE). Cat scratching posts are also available (100LE+), with and without catnip, helping to save your furniture from sharp claws. Masses of dog and cat treats are available, from simple chew sticks and bones to more gourmet options, if you will. Of course, there is also a variety of premium dry food brands available in small, medium and giant sized bags. Pet & Equi also cater for your pet's pharmaceutical needs, with a number of shampoos, litter trays, cushioned, post-op collars (220LE-260LE) and even cologne, to keep your pet smelling fresh between washes. Separated to the left side of the shop, an equally in-depth and organised section has been arranged for horse accessories, boasting everything from riding clothes and tack, to grooming accessories, medicinal sprays and antibacterial creams. Evidently, horse riding uniforms don't come cheap; quality jodhpurs start at 800LE, whilst a pair of smart black riding boots will set you back 600LE and an adult-sized hard hat was priced at 800LE. Riding gear ranged from saddles, saddle pads (220LE), bridles (360LE-1000LE+), stirrups, horse shoes and hoof care kits. Pet & Equi is a well-stocked, organised pet shop, selling dog and cat accessories at an international standard. More unusually, they stock a wide range of quality, albeit expensive, horse riding accessories, giving it an edge over its competitors.

Over the past few years, the island of Zamalek has seen 26th of July Street sprout numerous restaurants and cafes. Standing strong against the plethora of new competitors is Bread Basket – a staple of bakeries and cafes in Cairo.  The completely glass front reveals a stylish layout; two rows of high tables and stools look out onto the busy street and are perfectly positioned for some serious people watching. The bare brick walls coupled with the black and white furniture, gives the small 'food emporium' a particularly urban feel. We marched up to the glass counter at the back and were greeted by rows of doughnuts (5LE-8LE), mini and large, savoury and sweet croissants (3.5LE-11LE), muffins (4LE/8LE), biscuits (6LE-9.50LE/100g), pizza pieces (11LE/13LE) and chocolate chip cake loaves (25LE). An assortment of bread loaves can be found all over the place, including rye bread (19LE), malt grain (25LE), burger buns (2.50LE), French baguettes (6.50LE) and toast (11LE/12.50LE). Catering bread or sandwich baskets – serving between four and six people – can be prepared with 24-hours notice (45LE-140LE). As well as ready-made products, Bread Basket also offers cooked breakfasts (22LE-44LE), omelettes (20.50LE-28LE), muesli with yoghurt and honey (20LE) or a French breakfast (49LE), complete with a selection of mini pastries. Their salad (23LE-40LE) and sandwich selection (17LE-45LE) are nicely varied, with the choice of the bread, the filling and several extras. To eat, we picked a chicken mayo sandwich on olive ciabatta (32.45LE), a jam doughnut (8LE) and a cinnamon croissant (8.50LE). The sandwich was prepared quickly in their back room and was fairly disappointing; despite the occasional tasty chunk of black olive, the bread was otherwise dry and certainly less than extraordinary. The chicken mayo mixture was also incredibly dry, made worse with a stingy helping of mayonnaise. Thankfully, the cinnamon croissant was an improvement, with a crispy outer shell and a generous filling of sweet cinnamon – we'd recommend the croissant was heated a little before eating though. The best of the three, however, was the soft, airy jam doughnut; covered in sugar and filled with smooth and sweet apricot jam, which made for a welcome change to the usual standard strawberry filling. Their drinks menu is also vast, with plenty of hot and cold drinks; coffees (11.50LE-17LE), teas (7LE/8LE) and espressos as well as iced coffees (9LE-18.50LE), smoothies (20LE), milkshakes (19.50LE) and fresh juices (11LE-13LE). We picked up a bottle of freshly squeezed orange juice (12LE), which was neither too sweet nor too bitter, sporting just the right amount of orange pulp. Although the sandwich wasn't up to par, we're sure the friendly staff would have corrected it had we made a fuss. On the other hand, we'd highly recommend their sweet pastries and would most probably return in the morning in order to sample their fresh batches of bread, as well as their tasty sounding breakfasts, whilst watching the world go by.

Located on the Blue Nile Boat in Zamalek, Otium is an open-air lounge, restaurant and club, whose website describes the venue as fresh, funky and floating. Otium is actually an old club with a new name; in a previous life this hot spot was called 'Opium', but that changed when a wealthy Saudi bought the boat and objected to the drug reference. The new name is slightly more esoteric, since 'otium' is actually a rather abstract Latin term referring to leisure time, though, ironically, it also sometimes refers to retirement. Luckily for us, none of Otium's patrons seemed anywhere close to retirement.  After paying the cover (150LE), which changes based on the  night's event, we walked into the club's main area, which is located on one of the Blue Nile's many decks. The long tables and tall bar stools in the lounge area are all sleekly modern, while the low-slung couches that line the edges of the boat near the dance floor offer comfortable resting spots. In general, Otium's décor is fairly bland and not particularly memorable, but the view from the deck more than makes up for that.  Revellers can easily see Cairo Tower on one side and the burned-out National Democratic Headquarters on the other; however, the Nile sparkling in the background is the club's best feature. The dance floor is slightly smaller than one would like and we were either pushed up against other patrons or knocking over ice buckets; it is also on a different level than the rest of the floor, causing several people to trip. However, while the dancing started off as fairly tame,  Otium proved to be a good spot to go out for just that as the night wore on. Music at Otium depends on the theme of the night, and for our R&B Night it was great, with the DJ well in tune with the crowd.  Our entrance fee afforded us one drink and we decided on a gin and tonic and a rum and Coke; the former was not the best we've ever had, but thankfully the bartender didn't skimp on the alcohol in either. Next, we got several tequila shots (80LE); however, we weren't as pleased with these since the bar was already out of limes, even though the night was fairly young. Though there are several drawbacks to Otium, not least of which are the prices and the size of the dance floor, we found that the atmosphere, which is enhanced by the fantastic view of the Nile, makes dancing here a blast and is great for anyone looking to bust a move.

For the first time in the last twenty years, Evelyn Ashamallah unveils her long awaited collection - aptly named, '20 years of Evelyn Ashmallah' - in the beautifully secluded 6 Contemporary Art Space in Zamalek. Born in Dessouk in 1948, Evelyn has dedicated her life to the arts by holding many well respected positions and has won a number of prestigious awards for her paintings. For a short while, she was also the director of the Egyptian Modern and Contemporary Art Museum and even helped set up the Artists Syndicate in Egypt. The gallery is a large, spacious, well-lit area with high ceilings and bare wooden floors, creating a formal and professional feel. Evelyn's work filled the walls and was made up of eyecatching pieces, often grouped together in series. Most of her pieces used bright, vibrant colours, depicting abstract scenes of mystical, dream-like creatures or jolly caricatures illustrating Egyptian life. In the same style, there were a number of pieces drawn using shades of black and white.  Unfortunately, there is little information regarding the pieces available at the exhibition; neither are the pieces titled, nor could the assistant help us with unravelling the meanings behind the majority  of the paintings. However, Evelyn is said to reflect the far, funloving depths of the human imagination, attempting to merge the simplicity and innocence of her own childhood with the satire experienced in adulthood. The piece we recieved most information about, characterised the ancient myths of the Egyptian worship of serpents for their strength and protective qualities. Using slightly duller colours than the other pieces, perhaps to signify a more serious message, the painting shows a serpent sitting on a stool, being crowned and worshipped by a naked charicature of a woman. The piece is less busy than the others and had we not been told, we couldn't have guessed the story behind the scene.  Other paintings were more self explanatory, for example, a portrait of a smiling couple inside a house, we can assume is taken directly from Evelyn's memory and are perhaps members of her own family. There is also a painting depicting well-dressed couples in the countryside, surrounded by water, greenery and a train passing in the background; which gave off vibes of a warm and happy memory. Another of her paintings titled 'Mouled' is a colourful, playful composition, appearing to be a traditional Egyptian family, complete with a man and two wives - and many other figures - adorned with jewellery and several evil eye symbols warning off jealousy.     Our favourite, and arguably the most eye-catching painting was comprised of ten small canvas' put together to make one giant piece,  stretched across an entire wall. Bright reds, greens, blues and yellows are used to paint a make-believe scene involving a flying seal, a bird riding a floating bike and robots-come-aliens. The pieces exhibited had a lot of depth to them, so were interesting to attempt to analyse, however, with little information about the artists motivations or inspirations, many of the pictures appeared similar to one another, and left us feeling confused rather than inspirited.

Smart Gym has several branches across Cairo, but the one located on El Shaheed Sayed Afify Street in Heliopolis, right off Nabil El Waqqad Street, is women only, offering ladies a comfortable and private setting to get in shape.   Commanding three floors, Smart Gym is very spacious. The top floor houses a wide lobby along with a mini cafeteria which sells fruit, fresh fruit juices and smoothies, candy bars and salads, with comfy armchairs that you can sink into to enjoy a snack before or after your workout.  Using a very cool fingerprint identification system, the gym itself is found on the middle floor. Equipment is nicely varied, including treadmills, stationary bikes, elliptical machines, steppers and then another area is devoted entirely to weight equipment, ranging from free weights to dumbbells and barbells. Daily classes are also available such as aerobics, dance, martial arts, kickboxing, yoga, and others. It is useful at first to work with a coach to achieve desired results, and the ones available were found to be friendly and capable. On our way to the spa on the lowest floor, we found lit candles decorating the stairs, already promising a relaxing lounging atmosphere. Divine Spa, which is independent of the gym, offers facials (100LE-275LE), massages (100LE-275LE) and Moroccan baths; there are also two Jacuzzis, a sauna and a steam room to pamper you. For a day use, we paid 100LE. Although it might sound like a lot of money, it does include the whole package, where you can use the gym, attend classes and even wind down in their spa – which is quite reasonable. To apply for a membership, one must go through a series of questions on what their fitness goals are; whether it's losing weight, building muscles, toning or just general fitness, and assist you accordingly. They will also take your measurements and weigh you – with your blessing, of course – so you can track your progress down the line. If you really want to delve further, they also have body fat percentage and muscle measuring tools. A one month membership will set you back 550LE, while three months goes for 1500LE. We found their opening hours to be pretty convenient for almost everyone, being open from 8AM to 11PM. We do have to warn you though, on the 1st and 15th of every month, the gym is occupied with maintenance workers, so while the place is clean to the spot, it highly reeks of detergent.

In terms of Cairo's ever-so-slightly narrow frame of music, CocoRosie is quite the peculiar duo. Sisters Bianca and Sierra Casady make it their business to define what it means to be women in the music industry in the most extravagant of ways. With a very conscious and rebellious sense of feminism running throughout their general, collective being, the experimental folk twosome's approach to music is as fantastical and abstract as the pencil moustaches often seen neatly drawn on their saintly faces. Tales of a Grass Widow is CocoRosie's fifth full-length album since 2004 and sees the group draw on the various tangents taken on stunning folk debut, La maison de mon rêve, and similarly conceived follow-up, Noah's Ark, as well as less memorable albums, The Adventures of Ghosthorse and Stillborn and, most recently, Grey Oceans. The latter two releases saw the spiritual siblings – who formed their musical vision in Paris after years of estrangement – deviate from the freak-folk stylings of their early work which utilised simple combinations of guitar, piano, harp and, on occassion, experimental sounds using children's toys. CocoRosie's more recent work has delved into electronic pop and even hip-hop; a move that proved divisive amongst fans and critics alike. In the group's intangible spirit, however, it has felt like a necessary mistake – for lack of a better word. CocoRosie is a musical force that knows no bounds. Although their latest offering has toned down said hip hop and electronic elements, there still remains a very prevalent fusion of it that almost betrays the unique 'new folk' aura that made so many fall head over heels with them a decade ago. 'Roots of My Hair' is possibly the most explicit nod to the group's early work, while the contemporary pop compositions of 'Villain' and 'End of Time' swamp any remnants of the group's folksy inclinations. But the electro-pop does occasionally work, most notably on album opener, 'After the Afterlife' and 'Tears for Animals', which sees Antony Hegarty of Antony and the Johnsons guest star in a vocal collaboration made in heaven. Generally, though, the eccentric sisters find a middle ground; first single, 'Gravediggress', and 'Poison' – which sees Hegarty contribute for a second time – maintain the trademark CocoRosie ethereality while fulfilling the duo's electro-cravings. Like all CocoRosie work, Tales of a Grass Widow lingers; lyrics are filled with fluent, restful allegories and choruses are almost cultish in chant. This is music that is as ghostly, intangible, playful and troubled as its elusive source.

Brazilian novelist, Paulo Coelho, has enjoyed huge recognition and praise since the release of his first best-seller, The Alchemist, in 1988; the story of a young shepherd who goes on a treasure-seeking voyage, only to find that the treasure was the journey itself. Selling 65 million copies, and being translated into over 70 languages, the book became one of best-selling books in history. With every new Coelho book, expectations are high and the same applies to his latest novel, Manuscript Found in Accra. The narrator of the preface tells us that scrolls found in Egypt back in 1307AD are now in the possession of an English archaeologist, Sir Walter Wilkins, following a family trip. The book then goes on to transcribe what is written, and it goes as follows. Set within the walls of the of Jerusalem on the 14th of July in 1099 – when the French crusaders were nigh  – people of different ages and faiths gathered to hear the wisdom of a mysterious Greek who roamed Jerusalem. Known simply as 'the Copt', people turned to him for guidance. He was a believer something called Moira, descrobed as "the unknown god, the Divine Energy, responsible for a single law, which, if ever broken, will bring about the end of the world." A priest, a rabbi and an imam ask the Copt about love, solitude, the difference between defeat and failure, loyalty and recognising one's enemies, beauty, fear and all other facets of human existence. Allocating a chapter to each question, the book reads as more of a philosophical essay than a traditional novel, and each section encourages introspection. The book concludes with the Copt urging the people who listened to his words to write them down, and pass them on to the next generations and to people from other cities so that they could be exposed to the Divine Energy. Ultimately, he is urging them to write the manuscript that will later be discovered. Manuscripts Found in Accra is different from Coelho's older books in that it doesn't concentrate on a single theme. The Devil and Miss Prym tackled the notion of temptation, Eleven Minutes addressed sexual desire, and The Alchemist discussed the concept of the spiritual and the materialistic self. However, his latest release doesn't commit itself to one path, but instead highlights a variety of themes and the ultimate goal of seeking more harmonious approaches to life. Like all Coelho's work, its concise, easy-to-read and very accessible.