The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

La Bodega is a staple on the Cairo restaurant scene. Cairenes of allsorts see the history in its walls and the years gone by. Sounds dramatic, but it's true. Over the last few months, however, rumours have surrounded La Bodega is to close down. So, think of this as an exercise in nostalgia. On the first floor of a grand old Zamalek building in 26th of July Street, La Bodega is a high-ceilinged, warm setting with lots of deep woods and stand-out furniture pieces. With three distinct areas – the restaurant, the bar and a lounge in a closed-off room towards the back – we chose a dining table with a banquet on one side, where our group of six settled in for a laid back meal. The menu is diverse and couldn't really be narrowed down to a single cuisine, with choices such as chicken curry, Algerian couscous with lamb and rabbit a la bourguignon on offer. From the array of appetisers, we chose the beef Carpaccio (55LE), which was thinly sliced and juicy, served with a light dressing drizzled on top. The spicy calamari (42LE) was cooked to a perfect consistency, but was sweeter than it was spicy. A usual hit at La Bodega is the aubergine and halloumi (38LE), and while the ingredients were all there, the dish was unfortunately served a bit cold, which didn't fare well with the cheese. On the other hand, both salads – the artichoke (33LE) and the goat's cheese (36LE) – were vibrant and refreshing, though the dressing on the artichoke was a little on the thick side. We also sampled the mushroom soup (22LE) and French onion soup (21LE); the former was absolutely delicious, being perfectly creamy and full of fresh mushroom flavour. The latter was less enjoyable, though; it was a little too sweet and quite thin. If you're looking for a heartier meal, their beef fillet (95LE) has always been a crowd-pleaser, as is there Chinese style chicken (64LE), while the wide choice of fish dishes are also a safe bet. For dessert, we selected a chocolate soufflé with rum and vanilla ice-cream (30LE). We asked for it without the rum, but regardless, the chocolate pouf of a dessert was probably the downfall of our meal. The whole thing was sloppy, with a suspicious coffee flavour to it. La Bodega of course serves alcohol, where the most expensive bottle of wine, Jardin Du Nil, goes for 230LE. All cocktails are 55LE and beer is about 20LE a bottle, or 46LE for a Heineken draught. While the food faltered in certain areas, dining at La Bodega is generally a very pleasant experience. The service is attentive, while the atmosphere itself is sophisticated yet relaxed. The best thing about La Bodega, however,  is the fact that not much has changed over the years, and for that we have always been thankful.

Cairo is all about the mystery, the hidden secrets and what isn't obvious to the eye; it's a city of intrigue and contrast, one that never fails to entertain, amuse and time after time, prove to be a one of a kind experience. It is true that this city isn't always the most extravagant in shopping options, specifically for eveningwear, both for males and females. However, this does not mean that the women of Cairo need to sacrifice their wardrobe; it merely means they have to be more cunning in seeking it out. Though this may sound like a little bit too much effort, it is in fact quite refreshing; opening up new doors you may have never entered before – literally. Kamal Shohbur is a simple man with an atelier located in Mohandiseen, just off Midan Aswan in an unmarked building on Abo El Mahasen El Shazly Street. Recommended by a friend to make a dress, the experience turned out to be quite a memorable one, oozing with contradictions that deeply resemble life in Cairo as a whole. The atelier itself is downplayed, with a front window boarded with newspapers – it is in no way extravagant or polished on the inside either. It is simply an office with a fitting room to one side and a workshop in the back. No fancy lighting or luxurious furniture; just your design, Shohbur and his work. Shohbur himself has been making clothes since he was a child, under the apprenticeship of his father. Having travelled to Italy for some time to study design, he returned to Cairo, working mostly on a small scale. Although he has been encouraged by friends to market himself more in the fashion world, by hosting fashion shows and such, the man behind the dresses told us that he prefers to stay low-key, with a smaller clientele. The process begins with an initial meeting where the design is discussed, your measurements are taken and the amount, as well as type, of fabric needed is given.  In the city, the best place to go shopping for said fabric is Salem, also in Mohandiseen. After settling on the design and buying the fabric, the magic begins. Shohbur is accommodating and more importantly, comfortable to be around. His pleasant, soft-spoken demeanour quickly erases any pre-conceived notion of the atmosphere one stands in; in any other circumstance, his would be the last place a girl could imagine taking her clothes off. But once the process is on its way, there seems to be nothing more natural, ironically enough. Completing a dress can take up to a month, or in some cases could be delivered in a week. This of course depends on the how complicated the design is, and your own time contraints. Several fitting sessions take place about once a week – if you're taking your time – and because Shohbur values his customers, with time he comes to learn their bodies, thus producing dresses that are better and better fitting.  He will also patiently calm one's nerves during moments of doubt, apprehension and outright despair – which could happen several times throughout. The tailoring work is done mostly by Shohbur himself, with some minor help from extra hands that invariably change. He says that it is difficult to find good handiwork these days for lack of experience, and on top of that, has no desire to become a full-fledged business, so having a flock of employees is not high on his priority list. With a framed 'Allahu Akbar' picture in the fitting room, one had to wonder what this calm, private man felt towards some the designs he's being given. He's seen short, backless, open mid-riff, low cut, and all other revealing varieties and yet it doesn't shock him; however, does he approve? Giving us an honest answer, Shohbur admitted that the concept once filled him with guilt; it was a concern that led him to Al Azhar to seek spiritual guidance. Shohbur has thankfully made peace with his profession and avoids filling his mind with unnecessary conflict. The pieces he produces are highly commendable, well-tailored and most of all, personalised. His prices are reasonable, where a dress could cost just a little over 1000LE, also depending on complexity. But above all, Shohbur himself is pleasant and humorous, making the somewhat strange experience all the more enjoyable.

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

With the temperature soaring, what could be better than a whole day filled with sunbathing, swimming and snoozing in the sun? Heading away from the busy city centre, the Dreamland Hilton Pyramids Golf Resort in 6th of October City offers a supposedly luxurious day-use package. With the Hilton's reputation preceding itself, we imagined a five star afternoon, along with serenity and tranquillity; sadly our experience didn't quite match our expectations. The beige and brown hotel lobby is fairly uninspiring, to say the least, and would definitely benefit from some modernisation. However, for an attractive 150LE, customers are granted use of their outdoor pool, as well as a meal and a soft drink. It's important to bear in mind that children can use the swimming pool for free – something we were unaware of before our arrival. For 500LE, a group of three people can enjoy both the pool and the spa facilities, including the sauna and steam room.  Looking for a day of tanning, we went for the straightforward swimming pool day-use and instead of being shown to the swimming pool by a member of staff, we were ushered back out of reception and waved off in the general direction.  When we arrived at the pool, a member of staff placed some soft, clean towels on top of our chosen sun loungers. Unfortunately, the foam mattress itself was too short for the bed – and our bodies – making for a rather uncomfortable sunbathing experience. The swimming pool is by no means large, but it is scenic, complete with bridge, palm tree and waterfall features. There's also a separate paddling pool for toddlers and babies. Of course, attending for free, both pools were busy with splashing and excited screams from crowds of young children, which somewhat disrupted the peace and quiet we'd anticipated. The drinks menu advertises a selection of fresh juices (23LE), non-alcoholic cocktails (28LE) and beer (29LE). Again, our ticket limited us to soft drinks; two canned sodas arrived chilled, alongside glasses filled with ice. The slatted tables between our sun beds were incredibly uneven, which inevitably led to many near-spillages – we'd recommend using the floor instead.  The food menu is sufficient for a poolside bar, sporting a small selection of starters (35LE-50LE), pizzas (47LE-54LE), meat dishes (80LE-104LE) and desserts (40LE-48LE). Our food voucher afforded us a choice between the club sandwich (64LE), a baked toast sandwich (46LE), a golf burger (67LE) or a shish tawouk (67LE); we opted for a club sandwich and a burger, which both took a while to arrive. Fortunately, both meals were worth the wait. The club sandwich was a huge creation; imagine double-tiered, white toasted sandwich triangles, packed with fresh salad, chicken, beef, cheese and lettuce. Although the meat was processed, the overall taste was both satisfying and incredibly filling. The burger was also colossal, made from juicy, quality meat and spread with lashings of mayonnaise and flavourful melted cheese encased in a soft, fresh bun. The thinly cut fries which came with both dishes were perfectly cooked and ever-so slightly crispy, leaving us both full and satisfied.  The Hilton offers a very standard, basic swimming pool day-use, complete with a good quality lunch, at a decent price. We'd recommend heading over if you don't mind your lazy day being hijacked by hyperactive kiddies.

In the summer of 2011, Adham 'Eddie' Zidan, Magued Nagati and former Eskenderella stalwarts, Cherif El-Masri and Aya Hemeda, came together with former Sun City Girls member, Alan Bishop – also affectionately known as the almighty Alvarius B. On the surface, it's an unlikely combination, but Bishop's trademark experimental, and sometimes improvisational, approach to rock and folk has often seen the American dip into the musical stylings of the Middle East and South East Asia. One year later, in 2012, months of riffing and writing culminated in the group recording their eponymous debut album – one that shows the five-strong group to be remarkably established and confident in sound, with a complex grasp of music in its most elementary of forms. 2013 has already proven to be a fruitful year; the release of the album, in both English and Arabic versions, birthed a mini-tour of sorts, with performances at Cairo Jazz Club, 100Copies Music Space and Discord Music Nights, amongst others. The album is drenched in a very particular type of darkness and angst, taking Bishop's deep-seated underground bearing into post-revolution Egypt, and subtle Oriental nuances are threaded into the core of the songs and develop in a very organic way. And although the Invisible Hands have been branded as a psychedelic folk-rock group, the band demonstrates a certain type of versatility that allows them to operate very freely within their brand of music. Opening track, 'The Same', begins with the distant howls of dogs and sirens before launching into an oud solo, of sorts. Ninety seconds in, the track unapologetically throws you into the psychedelia of the Invisible Hands. From then on, the few elements of Oriental music that surface do so with a refinement unbeknownst to local music, most notably via piano in 'Summer Rain' and on violin in 'Death Zoo'. Apart from said Oriental touches, the Invisible Hands also draw inspirations from a plethora of sources. One such example is 'Dream Machine' which reeks of bossa nova, while retaining the underlying murky ambience that runs throughout the whole album. 'Hitman Boy' is treated in a similar way, with the group utilising familiar blues sounds under Bishop's magnetic vocals. All this has contributed to the fact that the Invisible Hands' sound lends itself very well to live performances, and anyone who has witnessed the group in action will attest to that. It is dark, it is menacing, but it has soul. The word catchy is often reviled by musicians, but this is, in no uncertain terms, one of the biggest factors in making the album accessible. 'Black Weather Shoes' makes for a perfect sing-a-long, 'Soma' invites you to twist and we'd challenge anyone to refrain from excessive foot-tapping during 'My Skull'. Importantly, however, there are no gimmicks here, no faux eccentricities and the only one who wears skinny jeans is sassy vocalist, Aya Hemeda. Instead, this is a group whose path is firmly set on producing good music. Though Bishop comes with considerable clout and has unequivocally aided the group in finding a platform, there's an intangible, magnetic energy that fuses the band's output effortlessly into an engaging, reflective and gratifyingly hazy puff of psychedelic smoke.

Not only is this weekend the excuse we've been waiting for to divulge in hundreds of Easter eggs, but it's Sham El Nessim and the perfect excuse for a break! Whether you're planning on travelling further afield, or staying in the city, hotels and resorts all over the country are competing for the tourism by offering special rates and packages. We've compiled a list of hotels and their rates, but with so many beautiful destinations around Egypt, the tricky part will be down to you – deciding on which one to go for.   Cairo For the majority of the time, we're usually too busy running around like headless chickens to appreciate Cairo and all it has to offer. Shut yourself off from the world with a city escape in one of the many luxurious hotels in town. Known for its wonderful Nile views, Sofitel El Gezirah are offering the third night free if you book just two, at $199 for a double room this includes breakfast and taxes. Sleep well in the knowledge that retail therapy at Citystars shopping mall is literally a corridor away from the Intercontinental Citystars Hotel, where they're offering rooms from $220 a night. The Fairmont Heliopolis & Towers is offering two nights, breakfast and a complimentary Easter brunch for two persons at 2400LE. Children between 6 and 12 years go for free when sharing their parent's room, and even get a 50% discount on their meals. They're even throwing in free parking – what a bargain! A double room at the Kempinski Nile will set you back 762LE per person, but you will be upgraded to a suite, get breakfast and Easter brunch, and be granted free use of their lavish spa facilities including a 30-minute massage. One night in a superior room at the esteemed Four Seasons First Residence, for two including brunch, is 1650LE. Ain Sokhna: Of course, only an hour's drive from the busy streets is the Red Sea and, more specifically, Ain Sokhna. Unfortunately many hotels in this area sell out well before the holidays; however, most hotels will offer day use of their beach and pool facilities although we'd always recommend calling in advance. Hurghada: Flying from Cairo to Hurghada takes just over an hour and offers both beach and city breaks, and is a popular holiday destination for tourists from all over the world. The pristine Hurggada Marriott Beach Resort sports its own private beach and has rooms available from 890LE. Around 25km from the hustle and bustle of Downtown Hurghada, the Jaz Bluemarine hotel are offering rooms from 1548LE, all inclusive. Right in the centre of Hurghada, you can bag rooms at the Pyramisa Blue Lagoon Resort from 449LE per night.  El Gouna: Just outside of Hurghada sits the beautiful, quaint town of El Gouna. Because of El Gouna's popularity, many of the hotels are either fully booked or more expensive than usual – but we know what they say – you get what you pay for. Bookings at their newest six star boutique hotel, La Maison Bleue, are only available through direct contact with the hotel and is likely to be more than fairly pricey. A twin room at Mövenpick Resort can be booked for around 2500LE, whilst rooms at the Sheraton Miramar are now priced at over 5000LE for two people. Captain's Inn offer somewhat of a relief with rooms costing between 230LE per night and 800LE during peak times. Because these are media rates, make sure you quote the words 'Facebook' or 'Twitter' when you book. Soma Bay: Just 45km south of Hurghada, dubbed as 'Egypt's best kept secret' is Soma Bay – the perfect location for total relaxation. If you're lucky enough to either be an Egyptian, or a foreign resident, the Kempinski is offering double lagoon view rooms for 700LE per person, per night, including a breakfast and dinner buffet. There'll also be Easter day entertainment in the form of face-painting, egg hunts and acrobatics – not just for the kids! The sumptuous La Residence des Cascades isoffering rooms for between $80 and $130 on a bed and breakfast basis, whilst the Sheraton are advertising rooms from 1150LE per night, including breakfast. Sharm El Sheikh: Drawing in the younger generations, Sharm El Sheikh is just an hour away from Cairo (by plane) and offers up a multitude of activities, suitable for whatever kind of holiday you're looking for. Novotel has a limited number of rooms from 1000LE per night, Hilton Sharks Bay has rooms from 685LE, whilst the Radisson Blu has a few from 500LE. Siitting in an estate of landscaped gardens, the Maritim Royal Peninsula Hotel and Resort seems cheap at a little, at just above 400LE per person. Dahab: The traveller in us often urges us towards the serene settings of Dahab. If you're looking for luxury, Le Meridien can deliver a single room for 970LE and a double for 1110LE. If you're looking for cosy, then just 200 metres from the beach, the Yasmina Hotel has rooms upwards of 120LE, whilst backpacker's paradise, Bishbishi Garden Village, can sort you out with a standard room for just €5 a night.  North Coast: If you're heading up towards the white beaches of the North Coast and want to stay close to the hustle and bustle of Marina, we'd recommend the forever popular Porto Marina, with rooms starting at the 500LE mark. Meanwhile, Golf Porto Marina apartments start at 367LE, based on four people sharing, per night. In a tranquil and picturesque setting a little further up the coast, Jaz Almaza Beach Resort can accommodate beach-goers for around 540LE a night. Luxor & Aswan: Drifting off along the Nile is a daydream at the best of times, however, if you happen to be visiting two of the most historically fascinating areas of Egypt, a nice hotel is likely to be essential.  In Aswan, Basma Hotel isoffering rates of $80 per night, whilst fail-safe rooms at the Mövenpick start at $130 per night. A single room at the Pyramisa Isis Island Resort & Spa is 475LE, whilst a double is 550LE, although these prices aren't guaranteed for foreigners. In Luxor, we'd suggest the Steigenberger Nile Palace Luxor or the Maritim Jolie Ville Kings Island Hotel, starting at 500LE a night. As expected, the renowned Hilton exceeds 1000LE per night but would no doubt be worth the money. Whether you're bound to some last minute booking or already packed in preparation, we urge everyone to stay safe in their travels – and enjoy lots of fun in the sun!