The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

Lebanese restaurants in Cairo are common, to say the least, but few truly elevate the cuisine. Located on El Thawra Street in Heliopolis, Tanoura struck us as being both aesthetically interesting and colourful, drawing us in with bright oranges, Mediterranean yellows and reds. The ground floor is only partially covered, creating an outside-in feel, complete with flower beds and a central palm tree. Continuing its cheerful theme indoors, the restaurant spreads over two more floors.  Named after a Lebanese dance, it seemed only appropriate that Oriental music served as the backdrop to our dining experience, whilst antique, reclaimed shisha pipes are used as light fixtures and are incorporated into the interesting screen designs. We were promptly shown to our seats before the waiter discreetly told us that the minimum charge is 75LE; a minimum easy to surpass with their wide selection of tempting Lebanese dishes. All the typical hot and cold appetisers are available, along with salads, arayes, mana'eesh, fattah and grills. If Lebanese doesn't take your fancy, there's also a selection of soups and pastas to choose from. Tanoura also offer a good variation of drinks; we ordered a lemon juice (18LE) and a watermelon smoothie (25LE), both which arrived swiftly. The lemon juice was a refreshing bitter-sweet concoction whilst the watermelon – now in season – was a deliciously fresh, icy slushy. We requested one chicken fattah (45LE), an onion soup (20LE), hommos (20LE) and cheese sambousak (24LE). We didn't have to wait long, and in true Lebanese style, everything was served together. A basket of cold, soft baladi bread was delivered as an accompaniment to the creamy, well-seasoned hommos. The cheese sambousak resembled four, generously sized spring rolls, deep fried to a golden brown. Unfortunately – due to the bed of lettuce they were presented on – the underside turned soggy fairly quickly. The onion soup was rich and flavourful, complete with a considerable amount of onion pieces swimming in it. Of all the dishes, however, our chicken fattah exceeded expectations; it was a creamy mixture of large, quality chicken chunks amongst crispy bread and soft white rice. The portion was so large that we struggled to finish it along with our starters. Rather than choosing one of their Oriental desserts, we chose to wash our meal down with an apple shisha (18LE) which was as expected; fruity, flavourful and smooth. The colourful décor, chilled-out atmosphere and contemporary setting of Tanoura modernises traditional Lebanese recipes, and is proving to be a popular place for both young and more mature clientele.

The abundance of international brands on the Cairo shopping scene really does leave us spoilt for choice. Unless we're mistaken, if there are two things most ladies love, it's shopping and pampering; combine the two and it's sure to be a recipe for success. Since its opening in 1990, American chain, Bath & Body Works, have set up shop in several of Cairo's busiest malls. Before we even saw the shop, we were drawn in by a wave of deliciously fruity fragrances. Following our noses, we wandered into the perfectly organised, perfumed haven. The displays were clearly labelled and organised by product, smell, and as a result, colour too. This, combined with an abundance of testers and a friendly shop assistant, made for pleasant, stress-free browsing. Everywhere we looked we found pampering products with exotic names; a delicious smelling Midnight Pomegranate was available as a shower gel (175LE), body mist (195LE), lotion (150LE) and a heavy, creamy body butter (145LE), which worked miracles on our skin. At the time of our visit, a buy three, get one free promotion was running. A range of aromatic perfumes were also available; from a full-bodied, sensuous Black Raspberry (295LE) or a sweet Warm Vanilla Sugar, to a rich and woody smelling Twilight Woods (295LE). These smells aren't just limited to body mists though; we found many of the same 'flavours' in candle form, ranging from 60LE to 280LE depending on their size – our favourite was the Wild Strawberry Savage candle, which smelt exactly as you would imagine. Pretty oil warmers were available and we also spotted some decorative metal candle sleeves priced from 70LE to 95LE. The products at Bath & Body Works aren't just for personal pampering; attractive gift boxes are ready-made to help make the difficult decision of what to pick that bit easier. For 520LE, shower gel, body lotion, mist, moisturising cream and a small candle all come as a package, wrapped in clear cellophane, complete with a big pink bow. Alongside all of these bath, body and fragrance must-haves, Bath & Body Works also stock travel-sized toiletries, bath accessories such as exfoliating sponges, foot care and beauty goods, as well as several shower and body products for men. Unfortunately, Bath & Body Works doesn't distinguish itself massively from other, comparable international brands, although they do offer a massive variety of sweet-smelling products of similar high quality. We can almost guarantee that if you walk into Bath & Body Works, you'll feel compelled to come out smelling just as good as the shop itself, even if it is a little expensive.  

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

A trip to the Sofitel Cairo El Gezirah is an experience in itself; the tube-shaped structure stands as a figurehead on the southern-most tip of Zamalek. There are plenty of reasons to attend, even if you're not staying the night; an afternoon lounging by the pool or an evening of wining and dining at Nile-side restaurants, Le Deck, El Kababgy or La Palmeraie, provide great opportunities to view Cairo at its best. Another good reason to go is the hotel's hair salon. The salon is open every day between 9AM and 9PM, even during national holidays. The coiffeur is on the hotel's second floor and has signs throughout the hotel. We rang ahead to book, but were told that an appointment would not be necessary and to come whenever we liked. When we arrived, the salon was empty, though the place was well staffed; this is not unusual for the salon, meaning that if you're in a rush – or it's a national holiday – you can rely on the Sofitel for unwavering service. The salon is clean and neat, without any ostentatious displays of girliness or posters of grimacing models – this is a place befitting of the Sofitel name. We were greeted at the till and told to immediately take a seat in the hair-washing chair. The salon has room for four-to-five clients to be seen at a time, and although it's only a small space, it's well laid-out and doesn't feel cramped. The attendant took her time with washing our hair, giving it a good amount of time to soak and even giving us a soothing head massage in the process. The products used smelt delicious and we can now confirm that our hair felt soft and clean for days after the visit. After our hair was professionally wrapped and brushed, the stylist came out to meet us and consult us on what we wanted. He nodded in assurance at our instructions and sure enough, after much snipping and measuring, came up with the desired result and was happy to make any adjustments we asked for. After the hair was cut, so began the styling process, which involved at a blow dry, followed by some a heavy-handed application with straighteners. To our dismay, the stylist curled our hair into tight ringlets so that the cut itself was completely overshadowed - although to his credit, the curls were very professional and stayed in place for the entire day. A wash and blow-dry cost 250LE, and the salon is also equipped to do dyes, extensions and offers a selection of products for customers to use at home. We were truly pleased with the results of our styling and the swift, professional service, which made a Sunday afternoon maybe-I-should-get-a-fringe whim, a reality.

In collaboration with the National Council for Childhood and Motherhood in Cairo and several government ministries, FACE for Children in Need is a charity that works towards safeguarding and supporting some of the most vulnerable members of society; abandoned new born babies, street children and their families. Following a visit to Cairo in 2001, Belgium-based South African, Flavia Shaw-Jackson – a foster mother herself – went on to launch FACE in 2004. Since then, the charity's work has spread across the city and touched thousands of lives. Though it is almost impossible to give an accurate figure, UNICEF has estimated that there are around 500,000 street children in Egypt. There are 238 legally recognised orphanages in the country, but the majority of these are understaffed, underfunded and terribly overpopulated, officially housing around 6500 orphans between them. The countless remaining orphans are incredibly vulnerable, left to fend for themselves on the streets. These young children are constantly at risk of crime, abuse, drug addiction and violence, growing up without education, love, affection or even basic human rights. Children and newborn babies are abandoned for an immeasurable number of reasons. In Egypt in particular, religious and societal traditions lead to many 'illegitimate' pregnancies and the fear of being shunned by the community should the mother keep her child. Divorce rates are also particularly high, and in the event of remarriage (or not), children from previous marriages are often rejected. Alongside these factors, unimaginable poverty in some communities can also lead to abandonment; otherwise, out of desperation, many are forced to beg or work to help provide for the family, leaving them unprotected and deprived of their childhood – something many of us take for granted.  The maternity death rate in Egypt is 20 times higher than in the west, and the death of one or both parents also contributes largely to the desertion of babies and young children. In 2009, FACE signed an agreement with the Ministry of Social Affairs to identify the problems and propose solutions to the existing legislation. In Egypt, orphans are looked after by the Ministry of Health until the age of two, before being moved to another orphanage run by the Ministry of Social Affairs until they're six. After the age of twelve, the children are separated into multiple institutions, commonly resulting in traumatic separations and the deprivation of long-term emotional attachments. FACE seeks out and aims to provide long-term, sustainable support for orphans, street children and their families; the organisation recognises the importance of secure relationships for young children and strategically works with individuals to tailor life plans via education and employment, and/or by repairing vital family relationships. To date, over 650 children have been successfully reintegrated into society, with some semblance of a childhood. Through employing Egyptian nationals, and others who are able to dedicate their efforts over long periods of time, the children looked after in FACE orphanages are provided with some sense of stability. Staff and volunteers are retrained regularly to ensure a high standard of care. Also, by heavily involving the kids in organising projects and activities, these children gain a sense of responsibility and importance within a team, which are both crucial for healthy development. In 2003, as part of the charity's initial work in the run-up to its official launch, FACE refurbished and modernised two orphanages; Zeitoun, for babies from 0-18months, and Hegazy, which takes in 120 abandoned babies a year, from 0-2yrs. In partnership with these orphanages, FACE opened its own orphanage in Maadi which houses babies until the age of two. After their stay at these homes, the children are kept together and moved to a renovated orphanage in Behna which allows the children to keep the same system of care which they are used to, and vice versa. Years later, in 2009, a centre for street children was opened in El Salam. A year and a half prior to its completion, a team of outreach workers set about building relationships with street children, encouraging them to engage with, and trust, adults. The children were offered fundamental non-formal education, medical care and all important life-skills. Since then, over 33,000 children have been contacted by the outreach programme and 30,471 children have attended the drop-in centre to take part in sports, recreational and educational activities. On top of this, nearly 10,000 of the children have received medical care and over 1,000 have been accommodated in the five FACE institutions. FACE also plans to open a child and mother support centre in Ghoussous; an area reported to be home to 2 million impoverished people. The centre will provide invaluable emergency support to mothers and their children, emergency accommodation, day care facilities, a nursery, and education programmes in order to help mothers find work. Sadly, due to the scale of the project, this life-changing development has been put on hold due to funding problems. If you're unable offer your services, be it through volunteering or fundraising, donations are always welcome. Just 250LE is enough to feed a child for a whole month and 350LE is enough to care for a baby entirely, including medical care, for the same amount of time. 600LE will put a toddler through kindergarten for a year, while 870LE can support an older child through a year of school.     To find out more about FACE's work and how you can get involved, visit the FACE website or Facebook Page.

Deerhunter's sixth studio album, Monomania, is going to be an extremely challenging album for the band's newer fans who were swept up in the ambient punk sound of their previous two releases: 2010's Halcyon Digest and 2008's double release Microcastle/Weird Era Cont. Right off the bat, it is clear that Bradford Cox and company are declaring war on indie culture and the band's associations with the 'chillwave' movement. It might seem a little hastily reactive, but for fans that have been following Deerhunter since their 2005 debut Turn It Up Faggot, Monomania is Deerhunter's inevitable magnum opus. This is Deerhunter's In Utero; a reminder to the public that they are a punk band at heart. On Monomania, Cox's increasingly conflicted relationship between his obsession with making music alone and his status as an iconic 'indie hero' is brought to the forefront – add to that his lifelong battle with Marfan's syndrome of which he is now overly aware will soon kill him. Though Deerhunter songs previously sounded more like a band effort, it appears that Cox is becoming the inevitable face and leader of the Deerhunter tribe as his personality and convictions are now at the forefront of Monomania where he wails and screams into your head through a low fidelity microphone on every track. When Deerhunter debuted the title track off of the album on Late Night with Jimmy Fallon in early April, internet blogs went ballistic as Cox sported a wig, dress and looked like his fingers were cut off while he wailed "IN MY HEAD THERE IS SOMETHING ROTTING DEAD!.. LET ME BE RELEASED FROM THIS! MONO MONOMANIA!!" incessantly, over and over again. This was the world's introduction to 'Connie Lungpin'; Cox's reactionary, indie-hating alter ego. In 2013, an album like Monomania and a figure like Lungpin are needed more than ever. As hipster/indie culture becomes this massive bubble of preconceptions, nothingness and indifference, Monomania is like a massive scalpel hacking away at the faint-hearted, seeing who will stick around when hipster blood is sprayed all over the walls of the 'Indie Empire'. Take the album's second track, 'Leather Jacket pt. II' - the name itself is a tribute to rock & roll and punk. The solo of this song, blasted at full volume, is evidence enough that Deerhunter lives on a different plane entirely to the buttoned up C86 cassette sounding indie scene that has taken over in the past two years. However, the album is not entirely inaccessible; the middle section features tracks such as 'Dream Captain', 'Blue Agent', 'T.H.M' and 'Sleepwalking', all of which should appeal to both new and old fans. 'Blue Agent' is a catchy but cunning and sardonic ballad that explores the idea of policing your own species, and 'T.H.M' is a fresh take on greenhouse gases where Cox celebrates – or tries to – how he is personally coughing and dying from asthma. 'Dream Captain' and 'Sleepwalking', two of the best songs on the album, are also in line with common themes on Monomania; the feelings of being letdown by your dreams, the death of the rockstar and rock & roll, as well as the conflicting dilemma and impulses that compel Cox to obsessively record and release hundreds upon hundreds of songs. Cox's lyrics on Monomania are also generally far stronger and at the forefront, rather than buried in reverbed haze. Monomania represents everything brilliant about rock & roll: from the proto days with Robert Johnson's mythology, to 50s Doo Wop and milkshake rock & roll, to 70s punk; the iconic nature of vinyl, the beauty of storytelling and self expression in song, as well as an acute awareness that in 2013, the art of rock & roll is under serious threat of extinction. For those sick of the status quo, both mainstream and indie, Monomania is a diamond in a goat's ass.