The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

La Bodega is a staple on the Cairo restaurant scene. Cairenes of allsorts see the history in its walls and the years gone by. Sounds dramatic, but it's true. Over the last few months, however, rumours have surrounded La Bodega is to close down. So, think of this as an exercise in nostalgia. On the first floor of a grand old Zamalek building in 26th of July Street, La Bodega is a high-ceilinged, warm setting with lots of deep woods and stand-out furniture pieces. With three distinct areas – the restaurant, the bar and a lounge in a closed-off room towards the back – we chose a dining table with a banquet on one side, where our group of six settled in for a laid back meal. The menu is diverse and couldn't really be narrowed down to a single cuisine, with choices such as chicken curry, Algerian couscous with lamb and rabbit a la bourguignon on offer. From the array of appetisers, we chose the beef Carpaccio (55LE), which was thinly sliced and juicy, served with a light dressing drizzled on top. The spicy calamari (42LE) was cooked to a perfect consistency, but was sweeter than it was spicy. A usual hit at La Bodega is the aubergine and halloumi (38LE), and while the ingredients were all there, the dish was unfortunately served a bit cold, which didn't fare well with the cheese. On the other hand, both salads – the artichoke (33LE) and the goat's cheese (36LE) – were vibrant and refreshing, though the dressing on the artichoke was a little on the thick side. We also sampled the mushroom soup (22LE) and French onion soup (21LE); the former was absolutely delicious, being perfectly creamy and full of fresh mushroom flavour. The latter was less enjoyable, though; it was a little too sweet and quite thin. If you're looking for a heartier meal, their beef fillet (95LE) has always been a crowd-pleaser, as is there Chinese style chicken (64LE), while the wide choice of fish dishes are also a safe bet. For dessert, we selected a chocolate soufflé with rum and vanilla ice-cream (30LE). We asked for it without the rum, but regardless, the chocolate pouf of a dessert was probably the downfall of our meal. The whole thing was sloppy, with a suspicious coffee flavour to it. La Bodega of course serves alcohol, where the most expensive bottle of wine, Jardin Du Nil, goes for 230LE. All cocktails are 55LE and beer is about 20LE a bottle, or 46LE for a Heineken draught. While the food faltered in certain areas, dining at La Bodega is generally a very pleasant experience. The service is attentive, while the atmosphere itself is sophisticated yet relaxed. The best thing about La Bodega, however,  is the fact that not much has changed over the years, and for that we have always been thankful.

The abundance of international brands on the Cairo shopping scene really does leave us spoilt for choice. Unless we're mistaken, if there are two things most ladies love, it's shopping and pampering; combine the two and it's sure to be a recipe for success. Since its opening in 1990, American chain, Bath & Body Works, have set up shop in several of Cairo's busiest malls. Before we even saw the shop, we were drawn in by a wave of deliciously fruity fragrances. Following our noses, we wandered into the perfectly organised, perfumed haven. The displays were clearly labelled and organised by product, smell, and as a result, colour too. This, combined with an abundance of testers and a friendly shop assistant, made for pleasant, stress-free browsing. Everywhere we looked we found pampering products with exotic names; a delicious smelling Midnight Pomegranate was available as a shower gel (175LE), body mist (195LE), lotion (150LE) and a heavy, creamy body butter (145LE), which worked miracles on our skin. At the time of our visit, a buy three, get one free promotion was running. A range of aromatic perfumes were also available; from a full-bodied, sensuous Black Raspberry (295LE) or a sweet Warm Vanilla Sugar, to a rich and woody smelling Twilight Woods (295LE). These smells aren't just limited to body mists though; we found many of the same 'flavours' in candle form, ranging from 60LE to 280LE depending on their size – our favourite was the Wild Strawberry Savage candle, which smelt exactly as you would imagine. Pretty oil warmers were available and we also spotted some decorative metal candle sleeves priced from 70LE to 95LE. The products at Bath & Body Works aren't just for personal pampering; attractive gift boxes are ready-made to help make the difficult decision of what to pick that bit easier. For 520LE, shower gel, body lotion, mist, moisturising cream and a small candle all come as a package, wrapped in clear cellophane, complete with a big pink bow. Alongside all of these bath, body and fragrance must-haves, Bath & Body Works also stock travel-sized toiletries, bath accessories such as exfoliating sponges, foot care and beauty goods, as well as several shower and body products for men. Unfortunately, Bath & Body Works doesn't distinguish itself massively from other, comparable international brands, although they do offer a massive variety of sweet-smelling products of similar high quality. We can almost guarantee that if you walk into Bath & Body Works, you'll feel compelled to come out smelling just as good as the shop itself, even if it is a little expensive.  

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

With the temperature soaring, what could be better than a whole day filled with sunbathing, swimming and snoozing in the sun? Heading away from the busy city centre, the Dreamland Hilton Pyramids Golf Resort in 6th of October City offers a supposedly luxurious day-use package. With the Hilton's reputation preceding itself, we imagined a five star afternoon, along with serenity and tranquillity; sadly our experience didn't quite match our expectations. The beige and brown hotel lobby is fairly uninspiring, to say the least, and would definitely benefit from some modernisation. However, for an attractive 150LE, customers are granted use of their outdoor pool, as well as a meal and a soft drink. It's important to bear in mind that children can use the swimming pool for free – something we were unaware of before our arrival. For 500LE, a group of three people can enjoy both the pool and the spa facilities, including the sauna and steam room.  Looking for a day of tanning, we went for the straightforward swimming pool day-use and instead of being shown to the swimming pool by a member of staff, we were ushered back out of reception and waved off in the general direction.  When we arrived at the pool, a member of staff placed some soft, clean towels on top of our chosen sun loungers. Unfortunately, the foam mattress itself was too short for the bed – and our bodies – making for a rather uncomfortable sunbathing experience. The swimming pool is by no means large, but it is scenic, complete with bridge, palm tree and waterfall features. There's also a separate paddling pool for toddlers and babies. Of course, attending for free, both pools were busy with splashing and excited screams from crowds of young children, which somewhat disrupted the peace and quiet we'd anticipated. The drinks menu advertises a selection of fresh juices (23LE), non-alcoholic cocktails (28LE) and beer (29LE). Again, our ticket limited us to soft drinks; two canned sodas arrived chilled, alongside glasses filled with ice. The slatted tables between our sun beds were incredibly uneven, which inevitably led to many near-spillages – we'd recommend using the floor instead.  The food menu is sufficient for a poolside bar, sporting a small selection of starters (35LE-50LE), pizzas (47LE-54LE), meat dishes (80LE-104LE) and desserts (40LE-48LE). Our food voucher afforded us a choice between the club sandwich (64LE), a baked toast sandwich (46LE), a golf burger (67LE) or a shish tawouk (67LE); we opted for a club sandwich and a burger, which both took a while to arrive. Fortunately, both meals were worth the wait. The club sandwich was a huge creation; imagine double-tiered, white toasted sandwich triangles, packed with fresh salad, chicken, beef, cheese and lettuce. Although the meat was processed, the overall taste was both satisfying and incredibly filling. The burger was also colossal, made from juicy, quality meat and spread with lashings of mayonnaise and flavourful melted cheese encased in a soft, fresh bun. The thinly cut fries which came with both dishes were perfectly cooked and ever-so slightly crispy, leaving us both full and satisfied.  The Hilton offers a very standard, basic swimming pool day-use, complete with a good quality lunch, at a decent price. We'd recommend heading over if you don't mind your lazy day being hijacked by hyperactive kiddies.

Star Trek Into Darkness  marks the  twelfth instalment in the Star Trek franchise – which dates all the way back to 1966 – and plays as the direct follow-up to the 2009's successful reboot, Star Trek. The film launches into action with a thrilling opening sequence which finds Capt. James T. Kirk (Pine) in deep trouble.  In an attempt to save Spock (Quinto) and the natives of Planet Nibiru from a catastrophic volcano eruption, Kirk puts the entire Starfleet in danger by revealing the U.S.S Enterprise's hideout and by interfering with Nibiru's primitive civilisation – prime directives which should never be broken. Even though his intentions were moral, Kirk knows that he's crossed the line.  Facing demotion as an executive officer and with Spock reassigned to another ship, Kirk's lofty ambitions look more and more unlikely. Soon, all is forgotten, however, when an act of terrorism shakes London.  The man behind the attack – as the Starfleet soon learns – is John Harrison (Cumberbatch); an ex Starfleet agent gone rogue, who has now escaped to the Planet of Klingons.  With Kirk and Spock  reassigned to the U.S.S Enterprise once again, the crew – which includes ship Helmsman Hikaru Sulu (Cho), Chief Medical Officer Leonard 'Bones' McCoy (Urban), Chief Engineer Montgomery 'Scotty' Scott (Pegg) and Communication Officer Nyota Uhura (Saldana) – are sent on a dangerous mission to capture and eliminate the terrorist. However, their mission – as Captain Kirk and his team soon learn – is not at all what it seems and disturbing secrets soon bubble their way to the surface.  Director J.J. Abrams - along with the team of returning writers, Roberto Orci, Alex Krutzman and Damon Lindelof – continues to breathe life into the beloved science-fiction series and his newest addition makes the four year wait for a sequel worth it. It's nothing short of an edge-of-the-seat extravaganza with plenty of excitement to keep everyone – including the non-Trekkies – amused. Aside from the expected action-packed scenes, the writers also manage to find time for more character-oriented threads, which allow the audience to connect just a little bit more to these iconic characters. As far as the die-hard Trekkies are concerned, don't despair; there are plenty of nods to the past and trips down the memory line with references to former characters, locations and weird alien species. Pine seems to be settling into the role of the infamous Captain Kirk pretty well; emotional and driven, Pine possesses the charisma to anchor such an epic. Meanwhile, the terribly talented Quinto is magnetic; his restrained and cold exterior provides plenty of laughs and, at the same time, plenty of stirring moments as we witness significant character growth. Pegg and Urban offer much of the comic-relief, while Saldana unfortunately fades into the background.  Most significantly, however, Cumberbatch shows plenty of depth as what is slowly revealed to be a complex antagonist. All in all, Star Trek Into Darkness offers guaranteesd entertainment. As an exhilarating and often moving addition to the franchise, JJ Abrams has proved that remakes, reboots and sequels can still be done well. Good job.

Hello Cairo! You may be tempted to spend the weekend in bed, but as we always say: sleep is for the weak, not for the weekend! From morning to night, this weekend in Cairo boasts a veritable smorgasbord of live music, club nights, exhibitions, bazaars and more!     As always, Thursday is a big bag of treats, with DJ Feedo doing his thing at Otium's R&B Night and Y Lounge welcoming DJ Margo Sahara for Music Loves You Back. Elsewhere, the Ten Cities Music Project comes to Cairo with a big night of live electronic music at Rawabet Theatre and DJ Mayounah unleashes her tech-house sounds at this week's edition of House Arrest at O Bar, while Toyboys & Friends ends the season in style. Meanwhile, Sufi hosts a doubleheader of live music with Eftekasat and Jordanian musician, Macadi Nahhas, performing, while Alchemy celebrates every Mexican's favourite drink at A Tequila Tale. Friday starts with a bang at NEWGIZA, where The May Day hosts a full day of fun for the family. With some of the city's best food vendors, a huge shopping bazaar and plenty of activities for the kids, there's literally something for everyone – not to mention pony-riding and a Real Madrid Academy Foundation football tournament. Later in the evening, DJ Roro is at Graffiti, Tamarai welcomes the nostalgic for another edition of Top of the Pops and Cairo Jazz Club hosts DJ Fabric and DJ Aly Goede. Meanwhile, DJ Feedo makes a second appearance in as many days; but this time at O Bar's R&B Night. Elsewhere, Y Lounge welcomes DJ Ali to the decks and Car Cafe Club is hosting R&B Ladies' Night with DJ Pedro and DJ Music Man. Away from the club scene, Sufi is screening Hollywood fantasy Big Fish and DAAD brings science and art together with the 'Images of Science' exhibition, while documentary filmmaker, Raphaelle Ayach, leads the Safarni Children's Workshop at Artellewa. Saturday is a busy day for Amici Heliopolis; Breakfast (And Booze) starts off the day, before new all-you-can-eat-and-drink event, Happy Saturday, debuts. We're back at Graffiti, where DJs Onsy and Nataly span the historical scope of pop music for your listening and dancing pleasure, while Jazz Mate's The Listening Sessions welcomes Ahmed Hafoush and the Jazz Project for a smooth night of music. Mohandiseen bar, Almaz, gets grimy with another urban music extravaganza at Sizzling Saturdays, while Bamboo channels Beirut for Lebanese Love. Art is plentiful in the  capital, with several new exhibitions having opened this week, including Hala Elkoussy's 'Around My Living Room' at Masharbia Gallery, Riham El Sadany's 'Blue Passion' at Cala Art Gallery and most interestingly, Bar D'O's The Chalkboard exhibition . These are just a few of the delights that await you this weekend in Cairo – check out the Cairo 360 events calendar for more! Happy Weekend!