The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

Started as a family-run bakery in 1889, Paul has grown into a full sized Boulangerie and restaurant, and has opened up authentically French branches all over Cairo. Most recently, they've opened up – arguably their prettiest establishment – on Geziret El Arab Street, catching the fashionable shoppers from the near-by Lebanon Street. The black and white front gives the shop a modish look, whilst a large window display of baked good tempts the customer up a set of LED lit steps and through their double doors. We love how this Paul has spread their sophistication right up to the edge of the pavement, with traditional lamp-posts, potted plants and a screen across one side.  The rustic-chic theme continues with the interior; polished wooden tables and chairs, neutral colours and a black and white chequered floor almost transports you to a quaint Parisian cafe. The waiting staff are pleasant, polite and courteous, always serving ladies first – even getting our hand bag it's own chair – whilst being ready and willing to offer their suggestions from the menu. Soon after we were comfortably seated, a complimentary basket full of fresh, flavourful brown and white bread slices was delivered swiftly to our table, along with a delicious olive tapenade, a pot of butter and olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The menu is a vast array of delicious-sounding dishes, made even more exotic by their French titles. Out of a selection of soups and quiches for starters, we opted for one Soupe a l'oignon traditionelle – or onion soup - (35LE) to share. Much to our delight, it was served in the middle of a cut-out brown loaf, rather than a standard bowl. Unfortunately though, the outside of the loaf was slightly charred, tainting the overall taste of the otherwise delectable rich soup.  Bypassing all the sumptuous sounding steak, fish, salads, sandwiches and savoury crepes options, we settled on one poulet roti aux amandes (89LE) and a Gratin de macaroni au poulet (65LE). In English, the poulet was described as roasted almond chicken breast, filled with camembert cheese, whilst the gratin appeared to be a cheesy curried pasta dish, rolled with broccoli and chicken pieces. Considering the prices are slightly on the high side, neither dish looked particularly large, but before long we were struggling to finish them. We couldn't taste a lot of almond in the tender pieces of chicken, although this was probably due to the strong tasting, velvety camembert filling. The side of vegetables were well-cooked, leaving a slight crunch to the carrots, green beans and asparagus, placed alongside a mound of buttery mashed potato puree. The pasta dish was also brilliantly cooked, with a subtle hint of mustard in the creamy curry and cheese sauce. The salad side was fresh and crisp, drizzled with tangy vinaigrette.  As for the drinks, there's plenty to choose from; teas and coffees (13LE-25LE), sodas (13LE), iced drinks (16LE-22LE), fresh juices (19LE-25LE) and Paul's signature cocktails (24LE-29LE). We chose one banana berries (26LE) – a fruity mix of strawberries, blueberries, red grapes, banana and fresh apple juice – and an Apple Cooler (24LE), complete with apple, strawberry and orange juice. Both were positively delectable, fresh, fruitful and incredibly satisfying, with the Banana Berries faring only slightly better in terms of flavour. Paul is also known to be a perfect spot for a relaxing cup of tea and slice of cake. A diverse selection of scrumptious cakes, pastries, macaroons and other sweet treats sit behind a sparkling counter, but are also conveniently listed in the menu. Moving away from the chocolate treats, we went for one sharp, bitter-sweet lemon tart, the 'tartelette citron' (24LE), which we certainly wouldn't hesitate to recommend.  If you're looking for an fashionable, upmarket, safe-bet for dinner or dessert, we'd recommend heading over to Paul. Bon apetite!

The abundance of international brands on the Cairo shopping scene really does leave us spoilt for choice. Unless we're mistaken, if there are two things most ladies love, it's shopping and pampering; combine the two and it's sure to be a recipe for success. Since its opening in 1990, American chain, Bath & Body Works, have set up shop in several of Cairo's busiest malls. Before we even saw the shop, we were drawn in by a wave of deliciously fruity fragrances. Following our noses, we wandered into the perfectly organised, perfumed haven. The displays were clearly labelled and organised by product, smell, and as a result, colour too. This, combined with an abundance of testers and a friendly shop assistant, made for pleasant, stress-free browsing. Everywhere we looked we found pampering products with exotic names; a delicious smelling Midnight Pomegranate was available as a shower gel (175LE), body mist (195LE), lotion (150LE) and a heavy, creamy body butter (145LE), which worked miracles on our skin. At the time of our visit, a buy three, get one free promotion was running. A range of aromatic perfumes were also available; from a full-bodied, sensuous Black Raspberry (295LE) or a sweet Warm Vanilla Sugar, to a rich and woody smelling Twilight Woods (295LE). These smells aren't just limited to body mists though; we found many of the same 'flavours' in candle form, ranging from 60LE to 280LE depending on their size – our favourite was the Wild Strawberry Savage candle, which smelt exactly as you would imagine. Pretty oil warmers were available and we also spotted some decorative metal candle sleeves priced from 70LE to 95LE. The products at Bath & Body Works aren't just for personal pampering; attractive gift boxes are ready-made to help make the difficult decision of what to pick that bit easier. For 520LE, shower gel, body lotion, mist, moisturising cream and a small candle all come as a package, wrapped in clear cellophane, complete with a big pink bow. Alongside all of these bath, body and fragrance must-haves, Bath & Body Works also stock travel-sized toiletries, bath accessories such as exfoliating sponges, foot care and beauty goods, as well as several shower and body products for men. Unfortunately, Bath & Body Works doesn't distinguish itself massively from other, comparable international brands, although they do offer a massive variety of sweet-smelling products of similar high quality. We can almost guarantee that if you walk into Bath & Body Works, you'll feel compelled to come out smelling just as good as the shop itself, even if it is a little expensive.  

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

A trip to the Sofitel Cairo El Gezirah is an experience in itself; the tube-shaped structure stands as a figurehead on the southern-most tip of Zamalek. There are plenty of reasons to attend, even if you're not staying the night; an afternoon lounging by the pool or an evening of wining and dining at Nile-side restaurants, Le Deck, El Kababgy or La Palmeraie, provide great opportunities to view Cairo at its best. Another good reason to go is the hotel's hair salon. The salon is open every day between 9AM and 9PM, even during national holidays. The coiffeur is on the hotel's second floor and has signs throughout the hotel. We rang ahead to book, but were told that an appointment would not be necessary and to come whenever we liked. When we arrived, the salon was empty, though the place was well staffed; this is not unusual for the salon, meaning that if you're in a rush – or it's a national holiday – you can rely on the Sofitel for unwavering service. The salon is clean and neat, without any ostentatious displays of girliness or posters of grimacing models – this is a place befitting of the Sofitel name. We were greeted at the till and told to immediately take a seat in the hair-washing chair. The salon has room for four-to-five clients to be seen at a time, and although it's only a small space, it's well laid-out and doesn't feel cramped. The attendant took her time with washing our hair, giving it a good amount of time to soak and even giving us a soothing head massage in the process. The products used smelt delicious and we can now confirm that our hair felt soft and clean for days after the visit. After our hair was professionally wrapped and brushed, the stylist came out to meet us and consult us on what we wanted. He nodded in assurance at our instructions and sure enough, after much snipping and measuring, came up with the desired result and was happy to make any adjustments we asked for. After the hair was cut, so began the styling process, which involved at a blow dry, followed by some a heavy-handed application with straighteners. To our dismay, the stylist curled our hair into tight ringlets so that the cut itself was completely overshadowed - although to his credit, the curls were very professional and stayed in place for the entire day. A wash and blow-dry cost 250LE, and the salon is also equipped to do dyes, extensions and offers a selection of products for customers to use at home. We were truly pleased with the results of our styling and the swift, professional service, which made a Sunday afternoon maybe-I-should-get-a-fringe whim, a reality.

Not only is this weekend the excuse we've been waiting for to divulge in hundreds of Easter eggs, but it's Sham El Nessim and the perfect excuse for a break! Whether you're planning on travelling further afield, or staying in the city, hotels and resorts all over the country are competing for the tourism by offering special rates and packages. We've compiled a list of hotels and their rates, but with so many beautiful destinations around Egypt, the tricky part will be down to you – deciding on which one to go for.   Cairo For the majority of the time, we're usually too busy running around like headless chickens to appreciate Cairo and all it has to offer. Shut yourself off from the world with a city escape in one of the many luxurious hotels in town. Known for its wonderful Nile views, Sofitel El Gezirah are offering the third night free if you book just two, at $199 for a double room this includes breakfast and taxes. Sleep well in the knowledge that retail therapy at Citystars shopping mall is literally a corridor away from the Intercontinental Citystars Hotel, where they're offering rooms from $220 a night. The Fairmont Heliopolis & Towers is offering two nights, breakfast and a complimentary Easter brunch for two persons at 2400LE. Children between 6 and 12 years go for free when sharing their parent's room, and even get a 50% discount on their meals. They're even throwing in free parking – what a bargain! A double room at the Kempinski Nile will set you back 762LE per person, but you will be upgraded to a suite, get breakfast and Easter brunch, and be granted free use of their lavish spa facilities including a 30-minute massage. One night in a superior room at the esteemed Four Seasons First Residence, for two including brunch, is 1650LE. Ain Sokhna: Of course, only an hour's drive from the busy streets is the Red Sea and, more specifically, Ain Sokhna. Unfortunately many hotels in this area sell out well before the holidays; however, most hotels will offer day use of their beach and pool facilities although we'd always recommend calling in advance. Hurghada: Flying from Cairo to Hurghada takes just over an hour and offers both beach and city breaks, and is a popular holiday destination for tourists from all over the world. The pristine Hurggada Marriott Beach Resort sports its own private beach and has rooms available from 890LE. Around 25km from the hustle and bustle of Downtown Hurghada, the Jaz Bluemarine hotel are offering rooms from 1548LE, all inclusive. Right in the centre of Hurghada, you can bag rooms at the Pyramisa Blue Lagoon Resort from 449LE per night.  El Gouna: Just outside of Hurghada sits the beautiful, quaint town of El Gouna. Because of El Gouna's popularity, many of the hotels are either fully booked or more expensive than usual – but we know what they say – you get what you pay for. Bookings at their newest six star boutique hotel, La Maison Bleue, are only available through direct contact with the hotel and is likely to be more than fairly pricey. A twin room at Mövenpick Resort can be booked for around 2500LE, whilst rooms at the Sheraton Miramar are now priced at over 5000LE for two people. Captain's Inn offer somewhat of a relief with rooms costing between 230LE per night and 800LE during peak times. Because these are media rates, make sure you quote the words 'Facebook' or 'Twitter' when you book. Soma Bay: Just 45km south of Hurghada, dubbed as 'Egypt's best kept secret' is Soma Bay – the perfect location for total relaxation. If you're lucky enough to either be an Egyptian, or a foreign resident, the Kempinski is offering double lagoon view rooms for 700LE per person, per night, including a breakfast and dinner buffet. There'll also be Easter day entertainment in the form of face-painting, egg hunts and acrobatics – not just for the kids! The sumptuous La Residence des Cascades isoffering rooms for between $80 and $130 on a bed and breakfast basis, whilst the Sheraton are advertising rooms from 1150LE per night, including breakfast. Sharm El Sheikh: Drawing in the younger generations, Sharm El Sheikh is just an hour away from Cairo (by plane) and offers up a multitude of activities, suitable for whatever kind of holiday you're looking for. Novotel has a limited number of rooms from 1000LE per night, Hilton Sharks Bay has rooms from 685LE, whilst the Radisson Blu has a few from 500LE. Siitting in an estate of landscaped gardens, the Maritim Royal Peninsula Hotel and Resort seems cheap at a little, at just above 400LE per person. Dahab: The traveller in us often urges us towards the serene settings of Dahab. If you're looking for luxury, Le Meridien can deliver a single room for 970LE and a double for 1110LE. If you're looking for cosy, then just 200 metres from the beach, the Yasmina Hotel has rooms upwards of 120LE, whilst backpacker's paradise, Bishbishi Garden Village, can sort you out with a standard room for just €5 a night.  North Coast: If you're heading up towards the white beaches of the North Coast and want to stay close to the hustle and bustle of Marina, we'd recommend the forever popular Porto Marina, with rooms starting at the 500LE mark. Meanwhile, Golf Porto Marina apartments start at 367LE, based on four people sharing, per night. In a tranquil and picturesque setting a little further up the coast, Jaz Almaza Beach Resort can accommodate beach-goers for around 540LE a night. Luxor & Aswan: Drifting off along the Nile is a daydream at the best of times, however, if you happen to be visiting two of the most historically fascinating areas of Egypt, a nice hotel is likely to be essential.  In Aswan, Basma Hotel isoffering rates of $80 per night, whilst fail-safe rooms at the Mövenpick start at $130 per night. A single room at the Pyramisa Isis Island Resort & Spa is 475LE, whilst a double is 550LE, although these prices aren't guaranteed for foreigners. In Luxor, we'd suggest the Steigenberger Nile Palace Luxor or the Maritim Jolie Ville Kings Island Hotel, starting at 500LE a night. As expected, the renowned Hilton exceeds 1000LE per night but would no doubt be worth the money. Whether you're bound to some last minute booking or already packed in preparation, we urge everyone to stay safe in their travels – and enjoy lots of fun in the sun!

In collaboration with the National Council for Childhood and Motherhood in Cairo and several government ministries, FACE for Children in Need is a charity that works towards safeguarding and supporting some of the most vulnerable members of society; abandoned new born babies, street children and their families. Following a visit to Cairo in 2001, Belgium-based South African, Flavia Shaw-Jackson – a foster mother herself – went on to launch FACE in 2004. Since then, the charity's work has spread across the city and touched thousands of lives. Though it is almost impossible to give an accurate figure, UNICEF has estimated that there are around 500,000 street children in Egypt. There are 238 legally recognised orphanages in the country, but the majority of these are understaffed, underfunded and terribly overpopulated, officially housing around 6500 orphans between them. The countless remaining orphans are incredibly vulnerable, left to fend for themselves on the streets. These young children are constantly at risk of crime, abuse, drug addiction and violence, growing up without education, love, affection or even basic human rights. Children and newborn babies are abandoned for an immeasurable number of reasons. In Egypt in particular, religious and societal traditions lead to many 'illegitimate' pregnancies and the fear of being shunned by the community should the mother keep her child. Divorce rates are also particularly high, and in the event of remarriage (or not), children from previous marriages are often rejected. Alongside these factors, unimaginable poverty in some communities can also lead to abandonment; otherwise, out of desperation, many are forced to beg or work to help provide for the family, leaving them unprotected and deprived of their childhood – something many of us take for granted.  The maternity death rate in Egypt is 20 times higher than in the west, and the death of one or both parents also contributes largely to the desertion of babies and young children. In 2009, FACE signed an agreement with the Ministry of Social Affairs to identify the problems and propose solutions to the existing legislation. In Egypt, orphans are looked after by the Ministry of Health until the age of two, before being moved to another orphanage run by the Ministry of Social Affairs until they're six. After the age of twelve, the children are separated into multiple institutions, commonly resulting in traumatic separations and the deprivation of long-term emotional attachments. FACE seeks out and aims to provide long-term, sustainable support for orphans, street children and their families; the organisation recognises the importance of secure relationships for young children and strategically works with individuals to tailor life plans via education and employment, and/or by repairing vital family relationships. To date, over 650 children have been successfully reintegrated into society, with some semblance of a childhood. Through employing Egyptian nationals, and others who are able to dedicate their efforts over long periods of time, the children looked after in FACE orphanages are provided with some sense of stability. Staff and volunteers are retrained regularly to ensure a high standard of care. Also, by heavily involving the kids in organising projects and activities, these children gain a sense of responsibility and importance within a team, which are both crucial for healthy development. In 2003, as part of the charity's initial work in the run-up to its official launch, FACE refurbished and modernised two orphanages; Zeitoun, for babies from 0-18months, and Hegazy, which takes in 120 abandoned babies a year, from 0-2yrs. In partnership with these orphanages, FACE opened its own orphanage in Maadi which houses babies until the age of two. After their stay at these homes, the children are kept together and moved to a renovated orphanage in Behna which allows the children to keep the same system of care which they are used to, and vice versa. Years later, in 2009, a centre for street children was opened in El Salam. A year and a half prior to its completion, a team of outreach workers set about building relationships with street children, encouraging them to engage with, and trust, adults. The children were offered fundamental non-formal education, medical care and all important life-skills. Since then, over 33,000 children have been contacted by the outreach programme and 30,471 children have attended the drop-in centre to take part in sports, recreational and educational activities. On top of this, nearly 10,000 of the children have received medical care and over 1,000 have been accommodated in the five FACE institutions. FACE also plans to open a child and mother support centre in Ghoussous; an area reported to be home to 2 million impoverished people. The centre will provide invaluable emergency support to mothers and their children, emergency accommodation, day care facilities, a nursery, and education programmes in order to help mothers find work. Sadly, due to the scale of the project, this life-changing development has been put on hold due to funding problems. If you're unable offer your services, be it through volunteering or fundraising, donations are always welcome. Just 250LE is enough to feed a child for a whole month and 350LE is enough to care for a baby entirely, including medical care, for the same amount of time. 600LE will put a toddler through kindergarten for a year, while 870LE can support an older child through a year of school.     To find out more about FACE's work and how you can get involved, visit the FACE website or Facebook Page.