The Definitive Guide to Living in the Capital

When it comes to Cairo restaurants, the city's hotels are usually safe bets for an evening of fine dining. Incorporating the original Palace Al Gezira into its design, the Cairo Marriott Hotel in Zamalek remains one of the most beautiful hotels in the capital. Built in 1869 by Khedive Ismail, and once used as a temporary home to many European monarchs, the intricate neo-classical architecture is still as breathtaking as it once was.      Saraya Gallery, a restaurant on the ground floor of the main palace building, is both impressive and dazzling with shining oriental chandeliers, giant golden mirrors, patterned wood wall panelling and intricate plaster work adorning the mile-high ceilings. Such a majestic setting brings on a sense of nostalgia and expectations of a meal fit for a king. Arriving in the evening, our dining experience was accompanied by the sound of soothing – and slightly romantic – live harp playing. Soon after we were seated, the menus were delivered, and we ordered the chef's recommendation of the French onion soup (45LE) for our starter, the 10oz certified black Angus New York sirloin steak (315LE), and the pasta e risotto Tuscany tour (130LE) – a dish that combined three pasta and one risotto preprations. The drinks menu was vast, filled with an infinite variety of imported wines, liqueurs, whiskeys, spirits, cognacs, beer, cocktails and non-alcoholic concoctions. One red berry iced tea (28LE) was ordered, along with a couple of large glasses of Cape Bay white wine (105LE/each). The white wine was served chilled in two enormous wine glasses, whilst the red berry iced tea was slightly tasteless, but we were afforded the chance to sweeten it ourselves with a side of syrup. To start, a complimentary bowl of delicious bread arrived alongside a butter dish. The food took a while to arrive, but all was forgiven when the plates were finally delivered underneath grand silver cloches. The onion soup was covered with a thick layer of stringy cheese which we cut through to reach thinned, flavourful soup with sweet onion pieces and the soggy bread immersed at the bottom of the bowl. The steak, meanwhile, was a colossal piece of quality meat, and happened to be our favourite of the meals. It was perfectly cooked to our medium-rare specifications and the pepper sauce was well balanced, while the side of vegetables remained a little crunchy, but was lacking seasoning. Our second side of parmesan fries was also sub-standard; undercooked with a measly cheese topping. In the creative four-pasta dish, the ravioli all'aragosta, penne all'arrabiata, spaghetti di mare, and the risotto del giorno were each unique, but some more delectable than others. The spaghetti di mare was positively al dente and sported a handful of tasty, fresh scallops and small shrimp, all rolled in a delicate tomato sauce. The penne all'arabiata, served with a generous amount of spicy tomato and basil sauce, was unfortunately undercooked, while the ravioli all'aragosta was vividly flavoured by pieces of lobster and baby shrimp. The risotto, meanwhile, was full of flavour, but the rice was slightly harder than we were expecting, which meant it didn't hold together like most risottos. On a brighter note, though, the rich mushroom and cream flavour was quite moreish. Overwhelmed by the fabulous sounding desserts, we ended our meal on a high note, ordering the chocolate croquant (70LE) to share. Despite the exotic promises of chocolate dacquoise, sable Breton and caramelised hazelnut, it was effectively a delicious log of milk chocolate mousse, with a filling of dark chocolate, covered in coco powder, with a side of scrumptious strawberry compote. We're not sure the quality of all the food entirely justifies some of the high prices; however, Saraya Gallery undoubtedly provides a magnificent setting for a formal dinner, hand in hand with some of the most professional waiters we've been lucky enough to encounter.      

Cairo is all about the mystery, the hidden secrets and what isn't obvious to the eye; it's a city of intrigue and contrast, one that never fails to entertain, amuse and time after time, prove to be a one of a kind experience. It is true that this city isn't always the most extravagant in shopping options, specifically for eveningwear, both for males and females. However, this does not mean that the women of Cairo need to sacrifice their wardrobe; it merely means they have to be more cunning in seeking it out. Though this may sound like a little bit too much effort, it is in fact quite refreshing; opening up new doors you may have never entered before – literally. Kamal Shohbur is a simple man with an atelier located in Mohandiseen, just off Midan Aswan in an unmarked building on Abo El Mahasen El Shazly Street. Recommended by a friend to make a dress, the experience turned out to be quite a memorable one, oozing with contradictions that deeply resemble life in Cairo as a whole. The atelier itself is downplayed, with a front window boarded with newspapers – it is in no way extravagant or polished on the inside either. It is simply an office with a fitting room to one side and a workshop in the back. No fancy lighting or luxurious furniture; just your design, Shohbur and his work. Shohbur himself has been making clothes since he was a child, under the apprenticeship of his father. Having travelled to Italy for some time to study design, he returned to Cairo, working mostly on a small scale. Although he has been encouraged by friends to market himself more in the fashion world, by hosting fashion shows and such, the man behind the dresses told us that he prefers to stay low-key, with a smaller clientele. The process begins with an initial meeting where the design is discussed, your measurements are taken and the amount, as well as type, of fabric needed is given.  In the city, the best place to go shopping for said fabric is Salem, also in Mohandiseen. After settling on the design and buying the fabric, the magic begins. Shohbur is accommodating and more importantly, comfortable to be around. His pleasant, soft-spoken demeanour quickly erases any pre-conceived notion of the atmosphere one stands in; in any other circumstance, his would be the last place a girl could imagine taking her clothes off. But once the process is on its way, there seems to be nothing more natural, ironically enough. Completing a dress can take up to a month, or in some cases could be delivered in a week. This of course depends on the how complicated the design is, and your own time contraints. Several fitting sessions take place about once a week – if you're taking your time – and because Shohbur values his customers, with time he comes to learn their bodies, thus producing dresses that are better and better fitting.  He will also patiently calm one's nerves during moments of doubt, apprehension and outright despair – which could happen several times throughout. The tailoring work is done mostly by Shohbur himself, with some minor help from extra hands that invariably change. He says that it is difficult to find good handiwork these days for lack of experience, and on top of that, has no desire to become a full-fledged business, so having a flock of employees is not high on his priority list. With a framed 'Allahu Akbar' picture in the fitting room, one had to wonder what this calm, private man felt towards some the designs he's being given. He's seen short, backless, open mid-riff, low cut, and all other revealing varieties and yet it doesn't shock him; however, does he approve? Giving us an honest answer, Shohbur admitted that the concept once filled him with guilt; it was a concern that led him to Al Azhar to seek spiritual guidance. Shohbur has thankfully made peace with his profession and avoids filling his mind with unnecessary conflict. The pieces he produces are highly commendable, well-tailored and most of all, personalised. His prices are reasonable, where a dress could cost just a little over 1000LE, also depending on complexity. But above all, Shohbur himself is pleasant and humorous, making the somewhat strange experience all the more enjoyable.

Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

Bars in Cairo are a dime a dozen these days and have to stand out in order to pull in the 'right' clientele. Despite the current economic – and political – climate, Graffiti Bar and Lounge has gallantly opened its doors in the esteemed Four Seasons Nile Plaza hotel in Garden City. The hotel itself is both plush and luxurious, with marble staircases and sumptuous carpets leading the way to the bar's grand double doors. After walking down a small corridor lined with colourful aquariums – yes, aquariums – the space opens up and is split into several different sections. There are two different bar areas, one much more impressive than the other, whilst the décor is quirky throughout. From the graffitied walls and unusual chandeliers, to it's huge menus plastered with cartoon-drawn faces of pop culture icons such as John Lennon; it's quite the sensory feast. In addition to the interesting interior, full length windows show off a mesmerising Nile view. There are several seating options; high and low tables, as well as large, comfortable leather sofas await you. Our group was allocated a high table with high stools which unfortunately only lined one side, leaving half the party standing – although this did encourage dancing. The crowd seemed to be a mixture of both fashion-conscious youngsters and more mature patrons – the type who might frequent the hotel for business meetings and such. Throughout the evening, table service was swift and the nibbles – crunchy crisps and salted peanuts – were topped-up regularly. Free jelly shots were also passed around our group once we'd all arrived, before the menus were delivered quickly – though they proved a little difficult to read in the light, which was changing periodically from red to blue. The drinks menu is vast, as is their exotic-sounding bar food and sushi menu. The bar offers up all the usual and unusual cocktails, along with shots, spirits, wine and a selection of beers. Shared pitchers are also available for 250LE. There is only a small selection of non-alcoholic cocktails – or mocktails if you will – and sodas, although ordering a normal cocktail minus the alcohol isn't be a problem.   On the occasional visit to the bar, we didn't have to wait long to be served, although the bar staff seemed a little confused when giving prices off the top of their heads. We ordered a piña colada (75LE), a margherita (75LE), a glass of Omar Khayyam and Cape Bay white wine (55LE/each), several tequila shots (70LE/each) and multiple Sakara Gold beers (35LE). The white wine and beers were served cold, as they should, while the tequilas came with the mandatory salt and lime pieces. The piña colada was deliciously sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of rum. The margherita was also mixed well, with the alcoholic kick blending in with the lemon flavour; however, the thick salt rim around the glass was too much and enough to make our eyes water.   Early in the evening, the music choice was far more chilled than we had anticipated, but began warming up before the main attraction during our visit, Vio Cello. The female Lebanese trio is made up of two extremely talented electric violinists and a cellist, which drew in a crowd of mature men – which made us question what crowd the bar is aiming for. In between their fast paced performances, the DJ took over with up-to-date commercial tracks which most of the younger crowd seemed to enjoy. Like the eclectic decor, however, the overall atmosphere seemed to be one of confusion.  We commend the efforts in originality of Graffiti, and this, coupled with well-mixed cocktails and fabulous service, could well land this bar in a competitive spot for cliquey Cairo crowds.

Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

With the temperature soaring, what could be better than a whole day filled with sunbathing, swimming and snoozing in the sun? Heading away from the busy city centre, the Dreamland Hilton Pyramids Golf Resort in 6th of October City offers a supposedly luxurious day-use package. With the Hilton's reputation preceding itself, we imagined a five star afternoon, along with serenity and tranquillity; sadly our experience didn't quite match our expectations. The beige and brown hotel lobby is fairly uninspiring, to say the least, and would definitely benefit from some modernisation. However, for an attractive 150LE, customers are granted use of their outdoor pool, as well as a meal and a soft drink. It's important to bear in mind that children can use the swimming pool for free – something we were unaware of before our arrival. For 500LE, a group of three people can enjoy both the pool and the spa facilities, including the sauna and steam room.  Looking for a day of tanning, we went for the straightforward swimming pool day-use and instead of being shown to the swimming pool by a member of staff, we were ushered back out of reception and waved off in the general direction.  When we arrived at the pool, a member of staff placed some soft, clean towels on top of our chosen sun loungers. Unfortunately, the foam mattress itself was too short for the bed – and our bodies – making for a rather uncomfortable sunbathing experience. The swimming pool is by no means large, but it is scenic, complete with bridge, palm tree and waterfall features. There's also a separate paddling pool for toddlers and babies. Of course, attending for free, both pools were busy with splashing and excited screams from crowds of young children, which somewhat disrupted the peace and quiet we'd anticipated. The drinks menu advertises a selection of fresh juices (23LE), non-alcoholic cocktails (28LE) and beer (29LE). Again, our ticket limited us to soft drinks; two canned sodas arrived chilled, alongside glasses filled with ice. The slatted tables between our sun beds were incredibly uneven, which inevitably led to many near-spillages – we'd recommend using the floor instead.  The food menu is sufficient for a poolside bar, sporting a small selection of starters (35LE-50LE), pizzas (47LE-54LE), meat dishes (80LE-104LE) and desserts (40LE-48LE). Our food voucher afforded us a choice between the club sandwich (64LE), a baked toast sandwich (46LE), a golf burger (67LE) or a shish tawouk (67LE); we opted for a club sandwich and a burger, which both took a while to arrive. Fortunately, both meals were worth the wait. The club sandwich was a huge creation; imagine double-tiered, white toasted sandwich triangles, packed with fresh salad, chicken, beef, cheese and lettuce. Although the meat was processed, the overall taste was both satisfying and incredibly filling. The burger was also colossal, made from juicy, quality meat and spread with lashings of mayonnaise and flavourful melted cheese encased in a soft, fresh bun. The thinly cut fries which came with both dishes were perfectly cooked and ever-so slightly crispy, leaving us both full and satisfied.  The Hilton offers a very standard, basic swimming pool day-use, complete with a good quality lunch, at a decent price. We'd recommend heading over if you don't mind your lazy day being hijacked by hyperactive kiddies.

Like Egypt's best qualities, the scope of cinemas in Cairo encapsulates the weird and the wonderful, the old and the new. It's difficult not to reminisce about the golden age of Egyptian cinema when we're confronted with film after film of slapstick balady comedy and over-zealous censorship guidelines, but nevertheless, thousands of Cairenes flock to movie theatres around the city every week and the options are plentiful.   IMAX (Sheikh Zayed) Located in Americana Mall, Sheikh Zayed, Cairo's first IMAX is the go-to for the biggest Hollywood blockbusters. Needless to say, the sound and picture is top notch, though ticket prices are predictably steep, while children below the age of four are not permitted – probably for the best. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: 40LE                                                       60LE   Plaza Cinema (Sheikh Zayed) Another of Americana Plaza Mall's movie theatre options, Plaza Cinema offers a whopping ten screens for your viewing pleasure. As one of the newer cinema complexes in Cairo, everything here feels clean, organised and neat, thanks to the excellent staff. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 20LE                                   Regular – 35E 3D – 25LE                                             3D – 40LE   Cine Comfort (Sheikh Zayed) Making up two of the thirteen theatres housed in Americana Plaza Mall, Cine Comfort offers the perfect viewing experience for those who like to lounge. With lazy-boy-style seating and ample space, just make sure you don't fall asleep. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 20LE                                   Regular – 35E 3D – 25LE                                             3D – 40LE   Galaxy Cineplex (6th of October City) Offering a great way to relax after a hard day's shopping at 6th of October City's Mall of Arabia, Galaxy Cineplex is also a great spot to drop off your kids before having a little alone time around the mall. Though Mall of Arabia houses some of the best venues in Cairo, the cinema itself isn't as lush as you'd imagine; sound and picture quality is satisfactory at best, while seating is rather rudimentary. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 20LE                                   Regular – 35E 3D – 25LE                                             3D – 40LE   Stars Cinema (Heliopolis) With an impressive thirteen theatres, Stars Cinema can be held accountable for the incessant busyness of Citystars in Heliopolis.  Located on the fifth floor of the popular mall, several of the theatres are small in size, but the quality in terms of screen and sound are impeccable. All theatres are kept clean – which is a pleasant surprise.   Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 20LE                                   Regular – 35E 3D – 25LE                                             3D – 40LE   Golden Stars Cinema VIP (Heliopolis) Slightly outshining its fifth floor counterpart, Golden Stars Cinema seems to believe that adding the name of a precious metal to its name elevates it. In truth, it does; located on the first floor of Citystars, the complex houses less theatres – eight – but offers a an all-round comfier viewing experience. This, however, comes at a price. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 25LE                                   Regular – 40E 3D – 35LE                                             3D – 50LE   Royal Renaissance Sun City (Heliopolis) Sun City Mall is quickly becoming a beacon for all things cool in Cairo, and the cinema follows in suit. Offering twelve screens, and four VIP screens with a separate VIP Lounge, this is one of the most grandiose cinemas in the city.  With top-notch visuals and sounds, Royal Renaissance Sun City's business seats are quite something. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 15LE                                   Regular – 35LE 3D – 20LE                                             3D – 40LE Business – 30LE                                 Business – 40LE                                 Business 3D – 35LE                           Business 3D – 45LE   Renaissance Nile City (Downtown/Boulaq-Shobra) Located inside the Nile City Towers, Renaissance stands as possibly the most popular cinema in Cairo; every foreign film that makes it through Egyptian censorship will be here. Unfortunately, the cinema has gained a rather unlikeable reputation for being noisy and unkempt, but that doesn't seem to deter many from the eight-theatre complex. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 25LE                                   Regular – 35E 3D – 35LE                                             3D – 45LE   Ramses Hilton (Downtown) Slap-bang in the middle of the busiest part of Downtown Cairo, the Ramses Hilton Cinema is decaying as badly as the once beautiful architecture of the area. Though the complex has five screens, showing both Arabic and English language films, the level of service and derriere-to-seat comfort  is not befitting of the Hilton name. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: 15LE                                                       30LE   Odeon (Downtown) In comparison to many cinemas in the city, the Odeon Cinema in Downtown Cairo offers good value for money. Though tickets are cheaper, the four theatre cinema boasts crisp and consistent quality throughout both Egyptian and foreign films.                 Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: 15LE                                                       20LE   El Tahrir Cinema (Dokki) Standing tall along the huge stretch of Tahrir Street in Dokki, El Tahrir Cinema is one of the most popular and longstanding cinemas in the city. Though it houses just a single screen, showing only Egyptian films, the cinema boasts balcony seating that is more suited to a theatre or picture houses of old. This is probably not a place to come if you're not a fan of teenagers.                 Early and Evening Shows: Regular seating – 25LE Balcony Seating – 30LE   Galaxy Cinema (Manial) As another landmark cinema in Cairo, Manial's Galaxy Cinema accommodates six theatres, screening both Egyptian and foreign films. A sense of efficiency and gravity runs throughout the cinema, making it one of the most dependable and frequented cinemas in the city. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 15LE                                   Regular – 30LE 3D – 20LE                                             3D – 40LE   Bandar (Maadi) Never ones to feel left out, Maadi's close-knit kinship takes pride in Bandar despite being one of the smallest cinemas in the city. But despite having only three theatres, Bandar offers moviegoers Egyptian and foreign films, as well as the gift of 3D, though ticket prices are curiously high. Early Shows:                                      Evening Shows: Regular – 30LE                                   Regular – 35E 3D – 40LE                                             3D – 45LE   These are just a few of the cinemas in Cairo – check out the Cairo 360 cinema listings for more. And remember; 3D glasses are not included in any of the above ticket prices and vary from cinema to cinema. Happy viewing!

Ever since her mesmerising performance as Edith Piaf in La Vie en Rose, Marion Cotilliard has become one of the most sought after actresses in Hollywood.  Appearing in a number of hit films including Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris, Christopher Nolan's Inception and most recently The Dark Knight Rises, it has become very clear that everyone wants a piece of Mademoiselle Cotilliard's indisputable talents. Rust and Bone – a low-key French melodrama – sees Marion return to her roots, with a story centred on two people coming together in times of great need. The film opens with Ali (Schoenaerts); an unemployed and an irresponsible single father who arrives in Antibes in southern France to live with his semi-estranged sister, Anna (Masiero). He soon lands a job as a bouncer at a nearby club; apart from being able to ogle short skirts all night long, it also gives him the freedom to take up kickboxing during the day. One night, during a club brawl, he meets Stephanie (Cotilliard); an orca trainer working at a nearby water park who gets herself caught up in the middle of the fight. Unable to drive, Ali extends his courtesy and drives her home. Initially, the two are shown to have no spark; they're greeted by Stephanie's jealous boyfriend and the two go their separate ways. Their paths cross again when Stephanie suffers a freak accident at the water park and calls on Ali to her rescue one more time. Finding solace in each other's company, the twosome starts off as friends, before finding themselves on the road to something more. Directed and co-written by Jacques Audiard – a filmmaker who gained acclaim for award-winning crime drama, A Prophet – Rust and Bone creates a successfully dark and unsympathetic melodrama of one woman's journey of both physical and emotional recovery. Unapologetic and sincere, the film is shot beautifully and is filled with dreamy, dim-lit water sequences, which play well against its generally grey and gritty backdrop. Unfortunately, Audiard does falter and manages to alienate all sense of intrigue and sentiment. The plot becomes predictable and manages to lose its leading lady almost straight away. Pushing her story completely aside, the focus is abruptly shifted on the hardships of a single father. The relationship between the two protagonists is baffling; the connection is off and they're relationship lacks any obvious passion. While nature of their relationship mirrors the mise en scene and the characters' miserable lives, the story yearns for a shot of furious romance to tie it all together. The most disturbing factor of all is the soundtrack; Katy Perry's 'Fireworks' and B52's 'Love Shack', among other musical monstrosities, lend absolutely nothing to the sum of the film's parts. Despite its ups and downs, Cotilliard delivers a sincere and often moving performance; never one to go over the top, the thirty seven year-old keeps her role grounded and real.  Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for her male counterpart who, very early on, settles into a one-dimensional portrayal of what should have been a complex character; Ali ends up coming across as a man devoid of any charm or wit. Raw, dark and very French, this is one of those films that you desperately want to love, but just plain don't.