The mammoth that is Citystars in Heliopolis has increasingly become the best place for anything and everything. It has its haters, but if you want to shop, chill out or eat, the giant shopping mall always has options. One of the more peculiar features of the mall is its Khan El Khalili-themed area on the fourth floor. Lined with shops filled with Pharaonic and Islamic souvenirs of questionable quality, the area is anchored by the large entrance of Kenoz.

Seating is divided into the restaurant and café areas that, unlike dining spots in the actual Khan El Khalili market, are spacious, clean and comfortable. The decor is pretty demure and inconspicuous except for the sandy beige walls carrying paintings of noble Arab steeds in combat.

We started our meal with a selection of hot and cold appetisers; tehina (8.75LE), chicken wings (15.50LE) and an aubergine and yoghurt dish (17.50LE). The taste of the tehina leant a little close to hummus but was delicious nonetheless, as was the aubergine. The popular Egyptian vegetable was pickled as per tradition, and the peeled segments are topped with yoghurt. The bluntness of the yoghurt either balances out the sharpness of the aubergine or mutes it, depending on your fondness for Egyptian pickling practices. Although the chicken wings were served lukewarm, their lemon, pepper and garlic dressing made up for it.

For our main course, we went for the mousa’aa (36LE) and the veal kebab (52.50LE). The mousa’aa was served hot in an ovular tagine bowl, and although it was packed full of minced meat and aubergine, a bit too much tomato meant those ingredients were lost in terms of taste.

The generously large chunks of veal kabab came seasoned perfectly but were slightly overcooked. The fries that came with the order were surprisingly adequate, and overall, the dish was more than enough for the hungriest of diners.

Helping the digestion process were orders of freshly made strawberry (13.50LE) and orange (12.50LE) juices. The orange was mouth-wateringly sour – just how this reviewer likes it - while the strawberry tasted more like raspberry but was pleasant enough.

Trying to recreate Khan El Khalili in a Heliopolis shopping mall is no mean feat, but Kenoz takes the best of that experience and adds a dash of good traditional Egyptian food. It’s difficult to be wowed by such domestic run-of-the-mill dishes; but Kenoz does all the simple things well.