Cairo Reviews

La Bodega is a staple on the Cairo restaurant scene. Cairenes of allsorts see the history in its walls and the years gone by. Sounds dramatic, but it's true. Over the last few months, however, rumours have surrounded La Bodega is to close down. So, think of this as an exercise in nostalgia. On the first floor of a grand old Zamalek building in 26th of July Street, La Bodega is a high-ceilinged, warm setting with lots of deep woods and stand-out furniture pieces. With three distinct areas – the restaurant, the bar and a lounge in a closed-off room towards the back – we chose a dining table with a banquet on one side, where our group of six settled in for a laid back meal. The menu is diverse and couldn't really be narrowed down to a single cuisine, with choices such as chicken curry, Algerian couscous with lamb and rabbit a la bourguignon on offer. From the array of appetisers, we chose the beef Carpaccio (55LE), which was thinly sliced and juicy, served with a light dressing drizzled on top. The spicy calamari (42LE) was cooked to a perfect consistency, but was sweeter than it was spicy. A usual hit at La Bodega is the aubergine and halloumi (38LE), and while the ingredients were all there, the dish was unfortunately served a bit cold, which didn't fare well with the cheese. On the other hand, both salads – the artichoke (33LE) and the goat's cheese (36LE) – were vibrant and refreshing, though the dressing on the artichoke was a little on the thick side. We also sampled the mushroom soup (22LE) and French onion soup (21LE); the former was absolutely delicious, being perfectly creamy and full of fresh mushroom flavour. The latter was less enjoyable, though; it was a little too sweet and quite thin. If you're looking for a heartier meal, their beef fillet (95LE) has always been a crowd-pleaser, as is there Chinese style chicken (64LE), while the wide choice of fish dishes are also a safe bet. For dessert, we selected a chocolate soufflé with rum and vanilla ice-cream (30LE). We asked for it without the rum, but regardless, the chocolate pouf of a dessert was probably the downfall of our meal. The whole thing was sloppy, with a suspicious coffee flavour to it. La Bodega of course serves alcohol, where the most expensive bottle of wine, Jardin Du Nil, goes for 230LE. All cocktails are 55LE and beer is about 20LE a bottle, or 46LE for a Heineken draught. While the food faltered in certain areas, dining at La Bodega is generally a very pleasant experience. The service is attentive, while the atmosphere itself is sophisticated yet relaxed. The best thing about La Bodega, however,  is the fact that not much has changed over the years, and for that we have always been thankful.

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Started as a family-run bakery in 1889, Paul has grown into a full sized Boulangerie and restaurant, and has opened up authentically French branches all over Cairo. Most recently, they've opened up – arguably their prettiest establishment – on Geziret El Arab Street, catching the fashionable shoppers from the near-by Lebanon Street. The black and white front gives the shop a modish look, whilst a large window display of baked good tempts the customer up a set of LED lit steps and through their double doors. We love how this Paul has spread their sophistication right up to the edge of the pavement, with traditional lamp-posts, potted plants and a screen across one side.  The rustic-chic theme continues with the interior; polished wooden tables and chairs, neutral colours and a black and white chequered floor almost transports you to a quaint Parisian cafe. The waiting staff are pleasant, polite and courteous, always serving ladies first – even getting our hand bag it's own chair – whilst being ready and willing to offer their suggestions from the menu. Soon after we were comfortably seated, a complimentary basket full of fresh, flavourful brown and white bread slices was delivered swiftly to our table, along with a delicious olive tapenade, a pot of butter and olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The menu is a vast array of delicious-sounding dishes, made even more exotic by their French titles. Out of a selection of soups and quiches for starters, we opted for one Soupe a l'oignon traditionelle – or onion soup - (35LE) to share. Much to our delight, it was served in the middle of a cut-out brown loaf, rather than a standard bowl. Unfortunately though, the outside of the loaf was slightly charred, tainting the overall taste of the otherwise delectable rich soup.  Bypassing all the sumptuous sounding steak, fish, salads, sandwiches and savoury crepes options, we settled on one poulet roti aux amandes (89LE) and a Gratin de macaroni au poulet (65LE). In English, the poulet was described as roasted almond chicken breast, filled with camembert cheese, whilst the gratin appeared to be a cheesy curried pasta dish, rolled with broccoli and chicken pieces. Considering the prices are slightly on the high side, neither dish looked particularly large, but before long we were struggling to finish them. We couldn't taste a lot of almond in the tender pieces of chicken, although this was probably due to the strong tasting, velvety camembert filling. The side of vegetables were well-cooked, leaving a slight crunch to the carrots, green beans and asparagus, placed alongside a mound of buttery mashed potato puree. The pasta dish was also brilliantly cooked, with a subtle hint of mustard in the creamy curry and cheese sauce. The salad side was fresh and crisp, drizzled with tangy vinaigrette.  As for the drinks, there's plenty to choose from; teas and coffees (13LE-25LE), sodas (13LE), iced drinks (16LE-22LE), fresh juices (19LE-25LE) and Paul's signature cocktails (24LE-29LE). We chose one banana berries (26LE) – a fruity mix of strawberries, blueberries, red grapes, banana and fresh apple juice – and an Apple Cooler (24LE), complete with apple, strawberry and orange juice. Both were positively delectable, fresh, fruitful and incredibly satisfying, with the Banana Berries faring only slightly better in terms of flavour. Paul is also known to be a perfect spot for a relaxing cup of tea and slice of cake. A diverse selection of scrumptious cakes, pastries, macaroons and other sweet treats sit behind a sparkling counter, but are also conveniently listed in the menu. Moving away from the chocolate treats, we went for one sharp, bitter-sweet lemon tart, the 'tartelette citron' (24LE), which we certainly wouldn't hesitate to recommend.  If you're looking for an fashionable, upmarket, safe-bet for dinner or dessert, we'd recommend heading over to Paul. Bon apetite!

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Most of Cairo's art galleries are tucked away in the shady streets of Zamalek, taking sanctuary on the quieter side of town to examine the delicacies of Cairo's visual art scene. Mashrabia Gallery, on the other hand, sits just off from the Egyptian Museum in Downtown. This month, the gallery has taken another step closer into the darkest depths of the city centre with new exhibition, 'Journey Around my Living Room' by Hala Elkoussy, which takes a camera lens to the gritty intricacies of Downtown. The exhibition's creation in the spring of 2012 was an attempt to draw the world's eyes away from the abrasive images of this city in the media, and refocus attention on the overlooked nooks of calm. Entering the exhibition, visitors will find a wardrobe with its three thick wooden doors left ajar, as if it's just been ransacked and abandoned in a flustered hurry. Peeking inside the doors, we found a jumble of forgotten junk; stacks of newspapers, hand-written notes and sepia photos are the most discernable. This introduction to the exhibition serves to remind viewers that they are entering a personal and subjective interpretation of a city and a home. On Elkoussy's journeys around Downtown as a street photographer, the artist attempted to capture the area in all its ramshackle glory; although the objects pictured are often broken, they retain dignity and beauty in their serene composition. Anyone who is even a little bit familiar with the intricacies of Egyptian culture will recognise the images displayed, as most depict common domestic imagery found throughout Egypt, such as abandoned chairs, the patterned oilcloth of street café tables and stray dogs. There are also a few shots that pay homage to hidden gems of the city such as its embattled plant life or detailed embellishments on a chair frame, all signifying the dusty beauty of the area. All the objects have an antique, almost sepia hue to them, which represents Downtown perfectly. The show makes no mention of popular spots, the booming nightlife or the many cafés that have undeniably become part of the city. The artist instead presents a version of Downtown through sentimental remembrance, eternalised in a shabby-chic faded memory; one that cannot comprehend its current modernity. In another city, this show would pit a powerful punch to those of us prone to nostalgia, but in the very city it represents, it's a refreshing readjustment of our perception of Downtown. The exhibition reminds us that we sometimes need a different perspective to fully appreciate the city in which we live. The crux of this exhibition is its ability to put down on paper the parts of Downtown which we catch in the corner of our eye, but don't focus on amid the clatter of human life, traffic and a revolution. Cairo is near impossible to distil into a frozen image, but the attempts to do so here remind us to take a step back, and apply a keener eye to what lies below the overt commotion.

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Yet another purveyor of frozen yoghurt and ice cream in Cairo has opened its doors! New at Nile City Towers, Scoops is actually pretty good, offering real Italian Ice-cream – or 'Gelato' to Italians - as well as tasty frozen yoghurt. We marched along the concourse to their small, bright pink corner shop to try out their chilled desserts.    The space itself is small but adequate, sporting two large glass counters; one brimming over with tempting ice creams and the other full of tens of colourful toppings. Unfortunately, there is no seating area, meaning that take-away is the only practical solution. Offering both natural and flavoured yoghurts, prices range 20LE-49LE, with the flavoured varieties - which only featured chocolate at the time of our visit – costing only slightly more. We went for a natural small frozen yoghurt with three different toppings; chocolate chip, Kit Kat and granola (29LE) which turned out to be an excellent combination, perfectly complimenting the icy, bitter-sweet, sharp taste of the natural yoghurt. Scoops of Gelato Italiano ice cream range at 13LE-34LE, whilst 400 gram tubs are 68LE and 750 gram tubs are 99LE. To help us decide which flavour to choose, we were given testers of the Ooh La La La Oreo Gelato, Vixeny Vanilla and the Playful Pistachio. All the ice creams were delicious, and almost positively authentic, with the Oreo ice cream tasting incredibly chocolaty with a rich biscuit aftertaste; meanwhile, the vanilla was creamy and fresh, whilst the pistachio boasted a good balance of sweet and nutty. Rather than purchasing a straightforward ice cream, something more unique caught our eye. Scoops sells brightly-coloured flower pots filled with chocolate, strawberry, vanilla or mango ice-cream, topped with chocolate crumbles and a fake flower for 22LE. We went for the exotic mango flavour – a choice we didn't regret. Although the chocolate topping was delicious on itself, and even chewy in parts, the chocolate-mango combination didn't quite work.      Alongside the ice cream range, fun-looking Gelato pops – essentially lolly pops of ice-cream – are priced at 14LE each, 74LE for 6 or 119LE for 12. You can also grab a caramel, vanilla or chocolate milkshake for 30LE, or an espresso for 12LE. Scoops' branding doesn't distinguish itself much from its numerous competitors, and generally doesn't do it justice, because their ice cream truly is delicious – and that's what really counts!

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'Table of Life' is Egyptian artist Tarek Montasser's first solo exhibition and is currently showing at the Art Lounge of Al Masar Gallery in Zamalek. The collection is relatively small, with still life being the general premise. The artist returned to Cairo in 2004 after years of travelling with mixed feelings towards his hometown; changes over the years left him feeling displaced and confused – emotions that are reflected in all the pieces. The first painting that meets you by the entrance, 'Chaos', is simply a canvas full of curved paint tubes. Their shape and resulting pattern look almost like dancing dervishes, though they supposedly represent fallen soldiers in what the artist describes as "a useless battle". His brush strokes are thick and full; there's a fervent hastiness to them and it gives life to the inanimate objects. Many of his images look as though he captures his view of sitting at a table to work. Tables with paintbrushes, pencils, cups of coffee and lamps are depicted, only these have juggling clowns standing in the middle, further expressing his inner madness. 'Noor Loves Apples' and 'They Passed By' are also in the same vein, only these have what look like figurines standing around, casting shadows on the surface below them, looking rather suspicious. There's also a cartoonish quality to some of his work; images of lollipops and cakes look almost edible, and while his brushstroke technique is fairly inconspicuous, the work feels accessible and there's undeniable skill involved in creating such an effect and instilling the exhibition with such a quality. Montasser doesn't use a lot of colour in his work; most of the pieces are more of a muddy shade, but there is still something very vibrant about them. Perhaps it's the combination of the lively brush strokes along with the actual subject, or maybe it's the contrast of the dusty palette against sparse blotches of colour; either way, there is something active in his still life. Although the artist employs one of the oldest forms of painting, there is definitely a quirky element that runs through the conventional approach. It's as though Montasser gives us a peek into his mind, and although the insight reveals a lot of personal frustration, it's also whimsical and entertaining.

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