Located in Fairmont Heliopolis, Maria’s received rave reviews when we visited it last. Since we always like to go back and make sure venues still earn their stars, we made our way over to the bright orange eatery, rumbling stomachs in check.
Maria’s is an open-space and part of what one companion described as the hotel’s ‘fancy food court’. The interior is a bright orange with minimal decorations; taking a seat on the elevated section of the restaurant, we concentrated on the task at hand: to eat as much Mexican food as we can.
You're started off with homemade tortilla chips served with a spicy salsa. The chips were crunchy and fresh, so much so we asked for more than one refill. Ordering some cocktails and guacamole (65LE), we intently studied the menu, trying to choose from a variety of dishes.
The Tequila Comfort (95LE) was delicious with a soft, well rounded flavour, while the traditional margarita (95LE) was tart and came with a heap of icy yumminess. The Rainforest cocktail (95LE) was just as pleasing and had a mellow strawberry flavour. The guacamole was prepared in front of us and we were asked specifics on how spicy we’d prefer it. With the perfectly crunchy tortilla chips, the chunky dip was quickly eaten up and we could have easily had some more.
We ordered quesadillas with beef (125LE) and the ceviche dish Aguachile Mazatlan (90LE), consisting of shrimp in a green chilli and lime sauce. The quesadillas came on a plate with sour cream, guacamole and chopped tomatoes on the side and were absolutely divine. The meat was succulent and tender, full of flavour and the tortilla wrap had the right consistency where it was neither too thick and dough like, nor too thin and flimsy. The shrimp were also good but you may be a little disappointed with the lack of variety within the dish - which contained shrimps sliced in half and a few cucumber shreds - considering the grandness of some of the other dishes. While the flavour was pleasing, we did find a vein that had not been properly cleaned out.
The main courses we chose were the burrito with grilled rib eye steak (160LE) which came stuffed with Mexican rice, re-fried beans and lettuce and - supposedly - covered in tomatillo sauce and melted cheese. We also ordered the Flautas de Borrego (160LE); slow roasted lamb with avocado and banana leaf flutes. The burrito tasted very similar to the quesadillas only more difficult to eat and with less juice. There was no sauce or cheese covering it as promised either. The lamb came wrapped in quite literal flute shapes and was a bit too salty and overall on the heavy side. The dish came with a highly spicy tomatillo sauce but it didn’t help alleviate how dry it was.
We chose the quesadillas for dessert (55LE), which come with chocolate, peanuts and banana in a cinnamon sugar sprinkled tortilla. With a side of ice cream, the quesadilla was warm, gooey and slightly crisp at the same time. The cold ice cream complementing the otherwise heated dish very well.
Maria’s is a very lighthearted restaurant. The mood is easygoing and considerably casual considering its location. The service deserves special acknowledgment, because our hostess was delightful without crossing that thin line of being intrusive. The rest of the staff were also especially pleasant, offering smiles and good service throughout.
Residents of Heliopolis should count their blessings. But for more centrally, or westerly located Cairenes, is it worth trekking to Heliopolis just for a meal at Maria’s? With the state of traffic these days, perhaps not. However, we would be very excited should our paths be sent in that direction, even if it’s for their cocktails and guacamole alone.